Naga the dragon is a mythical being responsible for protecting Earth. His body is similar to a snake's, which Achara elegantly replicates with this sterling silver bracelet.
Monday, January 21, 2008
Garnet necklace
Garnet necklace, Sensuous and chic, this necklace features three luxurious tiers of garnets. In the center, three additional gemstone cascades form a pendant. Prageet crafts the choker from sterling silver in a perfect fusion of tradition and style.
A jewelry expert!
Intriguing facts, fictions, and terminology
Abalone
Abalone is a mollusk, and a source of mother of pearl. It is the beautiful iridescent inside of the mollusk's shell that is called mother of pearl.
Acrylic
A type of thermoplastic, often used in jewelry.
Adamantine
Meaning to have a diamond-like luster.
Alexandrite Effect
Reference to stones that appear to be different colors depending on the light they are viewed under.
Alloy
A homogeneous mixture or solid solution of two or more metals, the atoms of one replacing or occupying interstitial positions between the atoms of the other. Common jewelry allows include gold, sterling silver, brass, bronze, pewter, and alpaca (also spelled alpaca, not to be confused with alpaca wool). Brass, for example, is an alloy of zinc and copper.
Alpaca (aka alpacca)
Sometimes used in jewelry as a silver substitute, alpaca is an alloy of copper, nickel, and zinc.
Aluminum
A lightweight, silver-white metal, first discovered in the 18th century. At that time, aluminum was more expensive than gold!
Annealing
A method of subjecting glass or metal to heating and slow cooling in order to toughen and reduce brittleness.
Anodized
An electrochemical, acid-bath/electrical current treatment for metal that changes the molecules of the surface layer (controlled oxidization) into a thin, protective, lustrous, sometimes colorful film.
Apple Juice
A translucent plastic the color of apple juice, used in jewelry.
Aqua Regia
A mixture of hydrochloric and nitric acids, used to test gold and platinum.
Arcade Setting (aka Coronet or Chaton Setting)
A setting of many metal claws holding the stone in place.
Arkansas Diamond
Actually rock crystal, not a real diamond.
Arkansas Stone
An abrasive used to smooth metals, used in jewelry-making.
Art Deco (1925-1935)
Deriving its name from the 1925 Paris Exposition of Decorative Arts and Modern Manufactures, Art Deco was actually a largely North American style that influenced everything from jewelry to architecture. With an emphasis on symmetry and geometry, the Art Deco movement strove to soften the mass produced look with a somewhat more sensitive, artful purpose. In jewelry, platinum, and diamonds played a central role, often mixed with inexpensive crystal and even coral. From Art Deco, the introduction of new emerald, pear, and marquises cuts resulted, harmonious with the symmetrical themes of the Art Deco style.
Art Nouveau (1890-1912)
In jewelry, the Art Nouveau movement broke away from the solemn conventions of Victorian and Edwardian styling, a rebellion that unleashed a creative, inspired outpouring of phenomenally beautiful works of art, incorporating much of the natural world - elegant flowers, dragonflies, ferns, snakes, and lithe, sensual animal and human forms. Also with the advent of Art Nouveau came a mastery of new gold casting and carving techniques, and the widespread use of enameling.
Arts and Crafts
A late 1800s artistic movement, with items intentionally made to appear handmade, and with simple settings.
Assay
An assay is a test of the purity of an alloy.
Asterism
A luminescent, star-like effect in some gemstones, reflecting light.
Aurora Borealis or AB
Often used in reference to glass rhinestones or beads coated with a thin layer of metals to achieve an iridescent sheen, named after the "Northern Lights." This process was jointly invented by the Swarovski and Christian Dior companies in 1955.
Awabi Pearl
Japanese name for abalone pearls.
Bakelite Jewelry
Thermoset plastic first produced in the 1920s, named after its creator, Leo Hendrick Baekeland. A dense, synthetic resin, Bakelite is difficult to melt and easily colored. It quickly became a popular material for jewelry, even fostering its own counterfeits. Bakelite was initially designed to imitate amber.
Bangle
A stiff bracelet, solid or sometimes featuring a hinge closure.
Bar and Ring Clasp
A bar fastener, where the bar is inserted into a ring, to connect two ends of a bracelet or necklace.
Baroda Gem
A trade name for a colorless glass stone backed with foil.
Baroque
Refers to irregularly shaped, natural or artificial pearls and stones.
Bar Pin (or Bar Brooch)
A long pin worn horizontally.
Barrel Clasp
Jewelry closure where one end of the closure screws into the other, barrel-like end.
Base Metal
Non-precious metals, including copper, lead, tin, and zinc.
Basse-Taille
Translucent enameling of low relief metals to produce a sculpted surface.
Baton
A long, thin, rectangular stone cut, larger than a baguette.
Bayadere
A pearl necklace of strands that have been twisted together.
Bell Cap
Glued onto a hole-less bead or stone to make threading possible.
Belle Epoque
The Edwardian period (1901 - 1910)
Bezel (aka Crown)
The top of a cut stone, protruding above the edge of the setting. A bezel setting, on the other hand, is a band of metal tightened around the outside of the stone to hold it in place.
Bib Necklace (aka Collarette)
A short necklace featuring flowing ornaments.
Big Four
Diamond, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds are known as "The Big Four", the most desirable gemstones in the world today, in that order.
Biwa Pearl
Irregularly shaped freshwater pearls from Lake Biwa, Japan, smoother and more lustrous than most freshwater pearls.
Bleaching
Removing or subduing a gemstone's color with a bleaching agent.
Bling Bling
Slang term coined by rapper Cash Money Millionaires, describing ostentatious, usually diamond jewelry.
Blister Pearl (aka Bouton Pearl)
A pearl that attaches itself to a mollusk's shell, so that it must be cut from the shell during removal, resulting in a flattened backside.
Bodkin
A renaissance era hairpin, laden with many jewels.
Bog-Oak
In the Victorian Era, bog-oak was carved into inexpensive jewelry and other decorative objects. It is old oak, blackened in Irish and Scottish peat bogs.
Bohemian Diamond
Rock crystal (not an actual diamond)
Bolt Ring (aka Spring Ring)
Invented in the early 1900s, the bolt ring is a circular metal fastening with a spring opening, designed to attach two other links in a bracelet or necklace.
Bonding
A coating of plastic or another colorless bonding agent onto a porous gemstone to make it harder and richer in color.
Botanical Gems
Minerals formed of plant material, including amber, coconut pearl, and pearl opal (found in damaged bamboo shoots).
Brazilian Chain (aka Snake Chain)
Link chain made of small cup-like links.
Brazing
Soldering with high temperature alloys to join high temperature metals.
Brilliant Cut
Stones cut with 56 facets, 32 above the girdle, 24 below, maximizing the amount of reflected light. The brilliant cut is the most popular diamond cut today, dating from the 1600s.
Bridge Jewelry
Bridging the gap between precious and costume jewelry, sterling silver is an example of bridge jewelry.
Briolette (aka Drop Cut)
A pear-shaped cut with triangular facets on the top surface.
Brooch (aka Pin)
An ornament of any material that can be pinned to a garment.
Brushed Finish
Brushed metal, with reduced reflectivity.
Bruting
The shaping of the girdle of a diamond, the first step in the cutting process, determining the basic shape of the finished gem.
Bubbles
Bubbles of gas caught in glass or resins, and sometimes in minerals.
Bugle Bead
A long, thin, tube-shaped glass bead.
Butterfly Wing Jewelry
Made from real butterfly wings, often with a picture painted on the wings, enclosed in plastic or glass.
Cabochon
A cut with a rounded, domed surface, with no facets.
Calibre-Cut
Small step-cut stones for inclusion in larger designs.
Cameo
A relief carving on a shell or stone.
Camphor Glass
Cloudy white glass, popular mid-nineteenth century.
Carat (ct.)
A unit of measurement introduced in 1907, .2 grams.
Casting
Melting and shaping metal through the use of molds. There are many methods of casting, including the lost wax process, centrifugal, and sand methods.
Cathedral Setting
A simple setting, a band that arches upward.
Choker
A short necklace designed to rest close to the throat, usually 13-15" in length.
Clip-On
A simple spring clip mechanism to lock earrings in place, not requiring piercings.
Celluloid
A plant-derived plastic, invented in 1869 by John Wesley Hyatt.
Celtic Jewelry
Designed by the Celts in Brittany, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales, using bronze, silver, and gold.
CFW
Cultured, freshwater pearls.
Champleve
This "sunken enamel" style is achieved by first cutting designs into the surface of metal, then filling the grooves with enamel, firing it to a polished sheen. Similar, but not as delicate, as cloisonné.
Channel Set
Jewels resting in a metal channel, held by a slight rim.
Charm
Small, symbolic ornaments, usually worn on bracelets or necklaces.
Chasing
Decorating metal by use of hammer strikes.
Chaton
A stone backed with reflective foil.
Chatoyancy
The cat's eye effect found in some polished stones, including cat's eye, tiger's eye, and various other stones. The cabochon cut best shows off this trait.
Claddagh Ring
An Irish ring, featuring two small hands clasped together.
Clarity
The lack of internal flaws in a gemstone. In diamonds, clarity ranges from FL (flawless), to 13 (with many imperfections visible to the naked eye).
Claw
A metal prong positioned to hold a gemstone securely in its setting.
Cleavage
The way a mineral natural breaks.
Cloisonne
A certain application of enamel to metal. First, a design is cut into the metal; then, the cuts are filled with enamel and fired to a polish.
Closed Setting
A setting that completely encases the back of a stone.
Cloud
Usually a cluster of tiny inclusions in a stone, making it appear milky, greatly reducing the stone's value.
Cluster Setting
A gemstone surrounded by small stones or pearls.
Collet Setting
A thin, round band of metal encircling a stone, with one edge crimped over the top of the stone, and the other edge of the band soldered to the metal of the setting.
Composite Suite
Jewelry that can be assembled into one piece or disassembled into two or more pieces, so that they can be worn as one item or separately.
Conch
A marine mollusk with a pearly, typically white or pink shell that is cut into beads for jewelry.
Crimp Bead
A soft metal bead that, when crimped, secures the loose ends of threading material.
Crown
The crown is the top part of a cut gem.
Crystal (glass)
Glass made of a minimum of 10 percent lead oxide, producing very clear glass, a process discovered in 1676 by Englishman George Ravenscroft.
Cubic Zirconium (aka Cubic Zirconia)
Resembling diamond, cubic zirconium is an inexpensive, manufactured gemstone, created in 1977.
Cuff Bracelet
A rigid, wide bracelet.
Cultured Pearl
Pearls produced by mollusks that have been purposefully injected with bits of shell. They shell serves as irritant, compelling the mollusk to begin coating the irritant with layer after layer of self-produced nacre, in an instinctive attempt to smooth and sooth the lodged irritation. This method of "farming" pearls was invented by Kokichi Mikimoto in 1893.
Cushion Cut
Stones cut into a square cushion-like shape, rounded on the edges, with facets typically similar to a brilliant cut.
Abalone
Abalone is a mollusk, and a source of mother of pearl. It is the beautiful iridescent inside of the mollusk's shell that is called mother of pearl.
Acrylic
A type of thermoplastic, often used in jewelry.
Adamantine
Meaning to have a diamond-like luster.
Alexandrite Effect
Reference to stones that appear to be different colors depending on the light they are viewed under.
Alloy
A homogeneous mixture or solid solution of two or more metals, the atoms of one replacing or occupying interstitial positions between the atoms of the other. Common jewelry allows include gold, sterling silver, brass, bronze, pewter, and alpaca (also spelled alpaca, not to be confused with alpaca wool). Brass, for example, is an alloy of zinc and copper.
Alpaca (aka alpacca)
Sometimes used in jewelry as a silver substitute, alpaca is an alloy of copper, nickel, and zinc.
Aluminum
A lightweight, silver-white metal, first discovered in the 18th century. At that time, aluminum was more expensive than gold!
Annealing
A method of subjecting glass or metal to heating and slow cooling in order to toughen and reduce brittleness.
Anodized
An electrochemical, acid-bath/electrical current treatment for metal that changes the molecules of the surface layer (controlled oxidization) into a thin, protective, lustrous, sometimes colorful film.
Apple Juice
A translucent plastic the color of apple juice, used in jewelry.
Aqua Regia
A mixture of hydrochloric and nitric acids, used to test gold and platinum.
Arcade Setting (aka Coronet or Chaton Setting)
A setting of many metal claws holding the stone in place.
Arkansas Diamond
Actually rock crystal, not a real diamond.
Arkansas Stone
An abrasive used to smooth metals, used in jewelry-making.
Art Deco (1925-1935)
Deriving its name from the 1925 Paris Exposition of Decorative Arts and Modern Manufactures, Art Deco was actually a largely North American style that influenced everything from jewelry to architecture. With an emphasis on symmetry and geometry, the Art Deco movement strove to soften the mass produced look with a somewhat more sensitive, artful purpose. In jewelry, platinum, and diamonds played a central role, often mixed with inexpensive crystal and even coral. From Art Deco, the introduction of new emerald, pear, and marquises cuts resulted, harmonious with the symmetrical themes of the Art Deco style.
Art Nouveau (1890-1912)
In jewelry, the Art Nouveau movement broke away from the solemn conventions of Victorian and Edwardian styling, a rebellion that unleashed a creative, inspired outpouring of phenomenally beautiful works of art, incorporating much of the natural world - elegant flowers, dragonflies, ferns, snakes, and lithe, sensual animal and human forms. Also with the advent of Art Nouveau came a mastery of new gold casting and carving techniques, and the widespread use of enameling.
Arts and Crafts
A late 1800s artistic movement, with items intentionally made to appear handmade, and with simple settings.
Assay
An assay is a test of the purity of an alloy.
Asterism
A luminescent, star-like effect in some gemstones, reflecting light.
Aurora Borealis or AB
Often used in reference to glass rhinestones or beads coated with a thin layer of metals to achieve an iridescent sheen, named after the "Northern Lights." This process was jointly invented by the Swarovski and Christian Dior companies in 1955.
Awabi Pearl
Japanese name for abalone pearls.
Bakelite Jewelry
Thermoset plastic first produced in the 1920s, named after its creator, Leo Hendrick Baekeland. A dense, synthetic resin, Bakelite is difficult to melt and easily colored. It quickly became a popular material for jewelry, even fostering its own counterfeits. Bakelite was initially designed to imitate amber.
Bangle
A stiff bracelet, solid or sometimes featuring a hinge closure.
Bar and Ring Clasp
A bar fastener, where the bar is inserted into a ring, to connect two ends of a bracelet or necklace.
Baroda Gem
A trade name for a colorless glass stone backed with foil.
Baroque
Refers to irregularly shaped, natural or artificial pearls and stones.
Bar Pin (or Bar Brooch)
A long pin worn horizontally.
Barrel Clasp
Jewelry closure where one end of the closure screws into the other, barrel-like end.
Base Metal
Non-precious metals, including copper, lead, tin, and zinc.
Basse-Taille
Translucent enameling of low relief metals to produce a sculpted surface.
Baton
A long, thin, rectangular stone cut, larger than a baguette.
Bayadere
A pearl necklace of strands that have been twisted together.
Bell Cap
Glued onto a hole-less bead or stone to make threading possible.
Belle Epoque
The Edwardian period (1901 - 1910)
Bezel (aka Crown)
The top of a cut stone, protruding above the edge of the setting. A bezel setting, on the other hand, is a band of metal tightened around the outside of the stone to hold it in place.
Bib Necklace (aka Collarette)
A short necklace featuring flowing ornaments.
Big Four
Diamond, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds are known as "The Big Four", the most desirable gemstones in the world today, in that order.
Biwa Pearl
Irregularly shaped freshwater pearls from Lake Biwa, Japan, smoother and more lustrous than most freshwater pearls.
Bleaching
Removing or subduing a gemstone's color with a bleaching agent.
Bling Bling
Slang term coined by rapper Cash Money Millionaires, describing ostentatious, usually diamond jewelry.
Blister Pearl (aka Bouton Pearl)
A pearl that attaches itself to a mollusk's shell, so that it must be cut from the shell during removal, resulting in a flattened backside.
Bodkin
A renaissance era hairpin, laden with many jewels.
Bog-Oak
In the Victorian Era, bog-oak was carved into inexpensive jewelry and other decorative objects. It is old oak, blackened in Irish and Scottish peat bogs.
Bohemian Diamond
Rock crystal (not an actual diamond)
Bolt Ring (aka Spring Ring)
Invented in the early 1900s, the bolt ring is a circular metal fastening with a spring opening, designed to attach two other links in a bracelet or necklace.
Bonding
A coating of plastic or another colorless bonding agent onto a porous gemstone to make it harder and richer in color.
Botanical Gems
Minerals formed of plant material, including amber, coconut pearl, and pearl opal (found in damaged bamboo shoots).
Brazilian Chain (aka Snake Chain)
Link chain made of small cup-like links.
Brazing
Soldering with high temperature alloys to join high temperature metals.
Brilliant Cut
Stones cut with 56 facets, 32 above the girdle, 24 below, maximizing the amount of reflected light. The brilliant cut is the most popular diamond cut today, dating from the 1600s.
Bridge Jewelry
Bridging the gap between precious and costume jewelry, sterling silver is an example of bridge jewelry.
Briolette (aka Drop Cut)
A pear-shaped cut with triangular facets on the top surface.
Brooch (aka Pin)
An ornament of any material that can be pinned to a garment.
Brushed Finish
Brushed metal, with reduced reflectivity.
Bruting
The shaping of the girdle of a diamond, the first step in the cutting process, determining the basic shape of the finished gem.
Bubbles
Bubbles of gas caught in glass or resins, and sometimes in minerals.
Bugle Bead
A long, thin, tube-shaped glass bead.
Butterfly Wing Jewelry
Made from real butterfly wings, often with a picture painted on the wings, enclosed in plastic or glass.
Cabochon
A cut with a rounded, domed surface, with no facets.
Calibre-Cut
Small step-cut stones for inclusion in larger designs.
Cameo
A relief carving on a shell or stone.
Camphor Glass
Cloudy white glass, popular mid-nineteenth century.
Carat (ct.)
A unit of measurement introduced in 1907, .2 grams.
Casting
Melting and shaping metal through the use of molds. There are many methods of casting, including the lost wax process, centrifugal, and sand methods.
Cathedral Setting
A simple setting, a band that arches upward.
Choker
A short necklace designed to rest close to the throat, usually 13-15" in length.
Clip-On
A simple spring clip mechanism to lock earrings in place, not requiring piercings.
Celluloid
A plant-derived plastic, invented in 1869 by John Wesley Hyatt.
Celtic Jewelry
Designed by the Celts in Brittany, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales, using bronze, silver, and gold.
CFW
Cultured, freshwater pearls.
Champleve
This "sunken enamel" style is achieved by first cutting designs into the surface of metal, then filling the grooves with enamel, firing it to a polished sheen. Similar, but not as delicate, as cloisonné.
Channel Set
Jewels resting in a metal channel, held by a slight rim.
Charm
Small, symbolic ornaments, usually worn on bracelets or necklaces.
Chasing
Decorating metal by use of hammer strikes.
Chaton
A stone backed with reflective foil.
Chatoyancy
The cat's eye effect found in some polished stones, including cat's eye, tiger's eye, and various other stones. The cabochon cut best shows off this trait.
Claddagh Ring
An Irish ring, featuring two small hands clasped together.
Clarity
The lack of internal flaws in a gemstone. In diamonds, clarity ranges from FL (flawless), to 13 (with many imperfections visible to the naked eye).
Claw
A metal prong positioned to hold a gemstone securely in its setting.
Cleavage
The way a mineral natural breaks.
Cloisonne
A certain application of enamel to metal. First, a design is cut into the metal; then, the cuts are filled with enamel and fired to a polish.
Closed Setting
A setting that completely encases the back of a stone.
Cloud
Usually a cluster of tiny inclusions in a stone, making it appear milky, greatly reducing the stone's value.
Cluster Setting
A gemstone surrounded by small stones or pearls.
Collet Setting
A thin, round band of metal encircling a stone, with one edge crimped over the top of the stone, and the other edge of the band soldered to the metal of the setting.
Composite Suite
Jewelry that can be assembled into one piece or disassembled into two or more pieces, so that they can be worn as one item or separately.
Conch
A marine mollusk with a pearly, typically white or pink shell that is cut into beads for jewelry.
Crimp Bead
A soft metal bead that, when crimped, secures the loose ends of threading material.
Crown
The crown is the top part of a cut gem.
Crystal (glass)
Glass made of a minimum of 10 percent lead oxide, producing very clear glass, a process discovered in 1676 by Englishman George Ravenscroft.
Cubic Zirconium (aka Cubic Zirconia)
Resembling diamond, cubic zirconium is an inexpensive, manufactured gemstone, created in 1977.
Cuff Bracelet
A rigid, wide bracelet.
Cultured Pearl
Pearls produced by mollusks that have been purposefully injected with bits of shell. They shell serves as irritant, compelling the mollusk to begin coating the irritant with layer after layer of self-produced nacre, in an instinctive attempt to smooth and sooth the lodged irritation. This method of "farming" pearls was invented by Kokichi Mikimoto in 1893.
Cushion Cut
Stones cut into a square cushion-like shape, rounded on the edges, with facets typically similar to a brilliant cut.
Beads & other materials
Throughout the ages, jewelry has been designed in a wide variety of beautiful and alluring materials. Texture, as well as color and style, has typically played an important role.
Natural fibers
Natural fibers and cloth have been used in jewelry throughout history. Stones and beads of all sorts, leather, shell, feather, wood, even seeds and berries.
Lacquered jewelry
Dating back to ancient China, exquisite lacquer jewelry can now be found in many regions of the world, especially Asia, India, and Europe.
Dried flower jewelry
Fresh and dried flowers may have been among the first ornaments to grace the human body. Today, exquisite dried flower jewelry is available, some of the finest designs handmade in Thailand.
Beads
Beads are believed to be the most ancient of personal adornments. A recent (2004) archeological discovery of beads - 41 tiny, perforated mollusk shells found in a cave in South Africa - may prove that humans began adorning themselves as far back as 75,000 years ago (30,000 years earlier than previously believed).In many regions of the world, beads have been used as monetary instruments. Christopher Columbus brought beads to the New World as gifts, and to facilitate trade. In some cultures, certain beads are believed to carry magic, protective powers.In parts of Asia, especially Indonesia, nearly colorless bamboo, stone, wood, and horn beads are favored, often decorated with bright colors. Many native North and South Americans use extensive beadwork in belts, bracelets, and clothes.Since the 10th Century, glass beads have been popular in areas of Russia, lavishly embroidered onto everything from furniture to purses.Today, bead enthusiasts enjoy a vast array of bead materials to choose from. Click on the following links to view samples of currently popular bead styles:
African beads
Bamboo beads
Ceramic beads
Cloisonne beads
Crystal beads
Glass beads
Gemstone beads
Precious metal beads
Resin beads
Rough gem beads
Seed beads
Stone beads
Turquoise beads
Wood beads
Natural fibers
Natural fibers and cloth have been used in jewelry throughout history. Stones and beads of all sorts, leather, shell, feather, wood, even seeds and berries.
Lacquered jewelry
Dating back to ancient China, exquisite lacquer jewelry can now be found in many regions of the world, especially Asia, India, and Europe.
Dried flower jewelry
Fresh and dried flowers may have been among the first ornaments to grace the human body. Today, exquisite dried flower jewelry is available, some of the finest designs handmade in Thailand.
Beads
Beads are believed to be the most ancient of personal adornments. A recent (2004) archeological discovery of beads - 41 tiny, perforated mollusk shells found in a cave in South Africa - may prove that humans began adorning themselves as far back as 75,000 years ago (30,000 years earlier than previously believed).In many regions of the world, beads have been used as monetary instruments. Christopher Columbus brought beads to the New World as gifts, and to facilitate trade. In some cultures, certain beads are believed to carry magic, protective powers.In parts of Asia, especially Indonesia, nearly colorless bamboo, stone, wood, and horn beads are favored, often decorated with bright colors. Many native North and South Americans use extensive beadwork in belts, bracelets, and clothes.Since the 10th Century, glass beads have been popular in areas of Russia, lavishly embroidered onto everything from furniture to purses.Today, bead enthusiasts enjoy a vast array of bead materials to choose from. Click on the following links to view samples of currently popular bead styles:
African beads
Bamboo beads
Ceramic beads
Cloisonne beads
Crystal beads
Glass beads
Gemstone beads
Precious metal beads
Resin beads
Rough gem beads
Seed beads
Stone beads
Turquoise beads
Wood beads
Precious metals
Eight metals are deemed precious: Silver, gold, and six platinum metals, including platinum, palladium, rhodium, ruthenium, iridium, and osmium.
Silver
Silver is too soft in its pure state for use in jewelry, and must be alloyed with other metals (typically copper). Silver has the highest thermal and electrical conductivity of all the metals.
800 silver
Silver containing 80 percent silver and 10 percent copper or other metal.
950 silver
95.0 silver contains 95 percent silver and 5 percent copper or other metal.
925 Sterling silver
Sterling silver contains 92.5 percent silver and 7.6 percent copper or other metal (a universally accepted standard, originally decreed in 1300 by England's King Edward the First).
Gold
Pure gold, like silver, is too soft for most jewelry. Therefore, it is usually blended with silver or copper to achieve a more resilient alloy. Karat (abbreviated "k" or "kt") refers to the percentage of pure gold the alloy contains (as opposed to carat weight, used for measuring precious gems, with one "c" or "cr" equaling 200 milligrams). The higher the percentage of gold contained in an item of jewelry, the higher the karat weight, with 100 percent pure gold measuring 24k, and 50 percent gold alloy measuring 12k."Solid gold" refers to an alloy that contains at least 10k of gold, and is not hollow. "Gold plated" items have been coated with gold of at least 10k. "Gold filled" actually also refers to items with a coating of 10k or greater gold, but in gold filled, the gold is mechanically bonded to the base metal, in a more durable fashion than simple gold plate.
White gold
White gold is an alloy of gold and nickel, sometimes also containing palladium or zinc. These metals lend the gold a pale, platinum-like color (whereas copper and silver enhance gold's natural golden hue).
Blue gold
The alloy of gold and metals containing iron results in gold with a bluish tinge.
Platinum
Rarer and pricier than gold, platinum is the finest of the precious metals. It is a silver-white metal found worldwide, typically strengthened with other metals, such as iridium, osmium, or nickel, for use in jewelry. Platinum is not measured in karats, but rather is stamped with a standardized platinum quality mark by its manufacturer, indicating the percentage of platinum contained (Pt1000 denotes pure platinum).
Silver
Silver is too soft in its pure state for use in jewelry, and must be alloyed with other metals (typically copper). Silver has the highest thermal and electrical conductivity of all the metals.
800 silver
Silver containing 80 percent silver and 10 percent copper or other metal.
950 silver
95.0 silver contains 95 percent silver and 5 percent copper or other metal.
925 Sterling silver
Sterling silver contains 92.5 percent silver and 7.6 percent copper or other metal (a universally accepted standard, originally decreed in 1300 by England's King Edward the First).
Gold
Pure gold, like silver, is too soft for most jewelry. Therefore, it is usually blended with silver or copper to achieve a more resilient alloy. Karat (abbreviated "k" or "kt") refers to the percentage of pure gold the alloy contains (as opposed to carat weight, used for measuring precious gems, with one "c" or "cr" equaling 200 milligrams). The higher the percentage of gold contained in an item of jewelry, the higher the karat weight, with 100 percent pure gold measuring 24k, and 50 percent gold alloy measuring 12k."Solid gold" refers to an alloy that contains at least 10k of gold, and is not hollow. "Gold plated" items have been coated with gold of at least 10k. "Gold filled" actually also refers to items with a coating of 10k or greater gold, but in gold filled, the gold is mechanically bonded to the base metal, in a more durable fashion than simple gold plate.
White gold
White gold is an alloy of gold and nickel, sometimes also containing palladium or zinc. These metals lend the gold a pale, platinum-like color (whereas copper and silver enhance gold's natural golden hue).
Blue gold
The alloy of gold and metals containing iron results in gold with a bluish tinge.
Platinum
Rarer and pricier than gold, platinum is the finest of the precious metals. It is a silver-white metal found worldwide, typically strengthened with other metals, such as iridium, osmium, or nickel, for use in jewelry. Platinum is not measured in karats, but rather is stamped with a standardized platinum quality mark by its manufacturer, indicating the percentage of platinum contained (Pt1000 denotes pure platinum).
Healing and spiritual beliefs: Gems, crystals, and magnetic jewelry
Magnetic jewelry
Magnetic jewelry has experienced a major resurgence in popularity, especially among athletes and alternative health practitioners. Magnetic energy is believed to induce a calming effect, and to increase blood and oxygen flow.
Some adherents believe bio-magnetic energy can cure a wide variety of ailments, from chronic pain to cancer. Magnet therapy has been practiced since ancient times. The Greeks and Egyptians studied the benefits of permanent magnets as long as 4,000 years ago, and a 2000 BC Chinese text details the beneficial results of magnets on acupuncture points.Gems & crystals: healing and spiritual beliefsAround the world, throughout history, people from nearly all cultures have believed that some gemstones and crystals held spiritual and healing powers.
The study of such spiritual and healing powers remains strong in countries such as India, where proponents believe that certain gems and crystals, brought in contact with the seven chakra points of the body, can help release clogged and unhealthy energy, freeing the body of imbalances both mental and physical. These beliefs have also gained a considerable following among many New Age adherents, who have brought these East Indian traditions to spiritual and alternative healing centers around the world.Adherents believe that crystals heal through vibrational powers.
There are examples within the realm of science that might lend credence to these beliefs. For example, piezoelectric quartz crystals are commonly used as oscillators in electronic devices (including quartz clocks, watches, and radios).
Crystal healing practicioners believe that the inherent vibrational "tuning" of various crystals resonates with our bodies in various ways that can promote or speed healing, just as deep therapeutic massage, accupressure, and accupuncture are believed to have similar beneficial effects.Crystal healing practicioners suggest that specfic gems be placed on certain of the seven chakra points of the body during massage treatments and during meditation. It is often recommended that the specified gems be worn or carried between treatments, as well.
1. Gems & crystals believed to aid the Root Chakra (base of spine):
Agate, ametrine, black obsidian, black tourmaline, blood stone, carnelian, hematite, fire agate, garnet, ruby, nephrite, smoky quartz, onyx.Physical, spiritual association: Adrenal glands, kidneys, spinal. column, back, hips, legs, feet; stability security, grounding, courage.
2. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Svadhisthana Chakra (sacral or spleen):
Amber, carnelian, citrine, golden topaz, golden beryl, zircon.Physical, spiritual association: Genital area, reproductive organs, bladder, bowel and lower intestine; creativity, harmony, emotional balance, passion, sexuality.
3. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Manipura Chakra (solar plexus):
Amber, citrine, emerald, golden topaz, tiger-eye, malachite, peridotPhysical, spiritual association: Stomach, pancreas, liver; courage, personal power, strength, self worth, transformation.
4. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Anahata Chakra (chest):
Rose quartz, pink tourmaline, rubellite, rhodochrosite, emerald, green tourmaline, malachite, green aventurine, ruby, green jade, nephrite, chrysoprase, rhodonite.Physical, spiritual association: Heart, lungs, thymus gland; love, forgiveness, compassion.
5. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Vishuddha Chakra (throat):
Aquamarine, blue topaz, blue tourmaline, blue turquoise, lapis lazuli, iolite, zircon.Physical, spiritual association: Mouth, throat, thyroid; will power, creativity, communication, truthfulness.
6. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Ajna Chakra (third eye):
Amethyst, blue tourmaline, sapphire, lavender quartz, sodalite, iolite.Physical, spiritual association: Eyes, brain, pituitary, pineal gland, nervous system; balance, clarity, intuition, coordination.
7. Gems & crystals believed to aid the Sahasrara Chakra (crown):
Clear quartz, amethyst, diamond, moonstone, lavender quartz, white topaz.Physical, spiritual association: brain stem, pineal gland, top of spinal cord; spirutuality, life force.
Magnetic jewelry has experienced a major resurgence in popularity, especially among athletes and alternative health practitioners. Magnetic energy is believed to induce a calming effect, and to increase blood and oxygen flow.
Some adherents believe bio-magnetic energy can cure a wide variety of ailments, from chronic pain to cancer. Magnet therapy has been practiced since ancient times. The Greeks and Egyptians studied the benefits of permanent magnets as long as 4,000 years ago, and a 2000 BC Chinese text details the beneficial results of magnets on acupuncture points.Gems & crystals: healing and spiritual beliefsAround the world, throughout history, people from nearly all cultures have believed that some gemstones and crystals held spiritual and healing powers.
The study of such spiritual and healing powers remains strong in countries such as India, where proponents believe that certain gems and crystals, brought in contact with the seven chakra points of the body, can help release clogged and unhealthy energy, freeing the body of imbalances both mental and physical. These beliefs have also gained a considerable following among many New Age adherents, who have brought these East Indian traditions to spiritual and alternative healing centers around the world.Adherents believe that crystals heal through vibrational powers.
There are examples within the realm of science that might lend credence to these beliefs. For example, piezoelectric quartz crystals are commonly used as oscillators in electronic devices (including quartz clocks, watches, and radios).
Crystal healing practicioners believe that the inherent vibrational "tuning" of various crystals resonates with our bodies in various ways that can promote or speed healing, just as deep therapeutic massage, accupressure, and accupuncture are believed to have similar beneficial effects.Crystal healing practicioners suggest that specfic gems be placed on certain of the seven chakra points of the body during massage treatments and during meditation. It is often recommended that the specified gems be worn or carried between treatments, as well.
1. Gems & crystals believed to aid the Root Chakra (base of spine):
Agate, ametrine, black obsidian, black tourmaline, blood stone, carnelian, hematite, fire agate, garnet, ruby, nephrite, smoky quartz, onyx.Physical, spiritual association: Adrenal glands, kidneys, spinal. column, back, hips, legs, feet; stability security, grounding, courage.
2. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Svadhisthana Chakra (sacral or spleen):
Amber, carnelian, citrine, golden topaz, golden beryl, zircon.Physical, spiritual association: Genital area, reproductive organs, bladder, bowel and lower intestine; creativity, harmony, emotional balance, passion, sexuality.
3. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Manipura Chakra (solar plexus):
Amber, citrine, emerald, golden topaz, tiger-eye, malachite, peridotPhysical, spiritual association: Stomach, pancreas, liver; courage, personal power, strength, self worth, transformation.
4. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Anahata Chakra (chest):
Rose quartz, pink tourmaline, rubellite, rhodochrosite, emerald, green tourmaline, malachite, green aventurine, ruby, green jade, nephrite, chrysoprase, rhodonite.Physical, spiritual association: Heart, lungs, thymus gland; love, forgiveness, compassion.
5. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Vishuddha Chakra (throat):
Aquamarine, blue topaz, blue tourmaline, blue turquoise, lapis lazuli, iolite, zircon.Physical, spiritual association: Mouth, throat, thyroid; will power, creativity, communication, truthfulness.
6. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Ajna Chakra (third eye):
Amethyst, blue tourmaline, sapphire, lavender quartz, sodalite, iolite.Physical, spiritual association: Eyes, brain, pituitary, pineal gland, nervous system; balance, clarity, intuition, coordination.
7. Gems & crystals believed to aid the Sahasrara Chakra (crown):
Clear quartz, amethyst, diamond, moonstone, lavender quartz, white topaz.Physical, spiritual association: brain stem, pineal gland, top of spinal cord; spirutuality, life force.
The caring and cleaning of jewelry
The best recommendation is to treat your jewelry with great care and reverence. Keep individual items separated to avoid scratches. Even harder-than-nails diamonds can be scratched by other diamonds! Be especially careful with pearls; they are soft and damage easily.
Link and chain bracelets are best stored flat (unhooked), rolled up in soft cloth.Apply perfume, makeup, and hairspray before putting on jewelry, and be sure to remove jewelry before doing housework that could damage it! Likewise, remove all jewelry before having your hair styled or colored! Be especially careful to avoid allowing your jewelry to be exposed to household chemicals, nail polish and remover, solvents and abrasives that can dull and damage.
Chlorine can damage gold, so avoid wearing gold in the pool. Cuff bracelets, especially those with settings, should be opened and closed as minimally as possible.Ultrasonic cleaners can damage some gems and pearls. Such jewelry is best washed in mild, soapy water, and dried with a soft, lint-free cloth.
We advise bringing your jewelry to an expert for all cleaning and repairs. A great tip for silver: As exposure to air tarnishes it, storing silver in airtight plastic bags will greatly reduce tarnishing. Keep in mind that some silver is purposefully oxidized (antiqued). Oxidized silver should only be cleaned with a polishing cloth, without silver cleaning solution. Unlike silver, pearls should not be kept in an airtight container; they can dry out. Gently wipe pearls with a hot, damp towel to remove finger and body oils, then carefully wrap them in soft cloth for storage.
Jewelry wearing and pairing tips
Tips for her
Today, we have tremendous choice in what we may wear and how we wear it. It is tempting to celebrate this freedom with great abandon, and we urge to you do so! If you do desire some simple pointers, however, we're here to help guide you!
Pairing jewelry with jewelry
Purchasing jewelry in sets makes pairing easiest: necklaces, earrings, and sometimes bracelets and rings designed to be worn together takes the effort out of deciding what goes best with what! Fret not, however, if you wish to pair individual treasures. Simply keep in mind this most basic rule: like styles, patterns, materials, and colors go best together. Additionally, when any one aspect of the jewelry ensemble is extravagant, the other elements are best left understated. A dramatic necklace looks best with no earrings, or with small stud earrings (or matching earrings). Likewise, bold or exceptionally long earrings look best without a necklace, or paired with a delicate necklace made of similar essential elements.
Paring jewelry with clothes
"The more extravagant the jewelry, the more uncluttered the clothes." This is a tried and true rule of thumb! To take it a step further (remember, these are just general guidelines): Fancy necklaces go best with simple necklines. Bold, heavy jewelry goes well with suits and pants. Delicate and feminine jewelry with breezy or elegant dresses. It naturally follows that jewelry should, and typically does, to some degree reflect the wearer's personality: bold jewelry on bold women, dainty jewelry on dainty women. When choosing jewelry, find colors that blend harmoniously with the colors of your clothes.
Pairing jewelry with body types
Chokers attract the viewer's eye to the neck; longer necklaces to the bust; sparkling or dangling earrings will attract attention to the face; and of course bracelets and rings to the arms and hands. Draw attention to your favorite features! Pay particular attention when purchasing necklaces and earrings. Rather than choosing shapes that repeat the shape of your face, select shapes that contradict it (but not to extremes). If your face is round, try longer necklaces, and experiment with medium-length dangle earrings. Angular faces are best flattered with round jewelry - hoops and chokers.
Tips for him
Men's watches, bracelets, necklaces, and the occasional earring are ideally simple and understated, and best worn where they peek out ever so subtly and enticingly from beneath clothing. A necklace looks wonderful when it conforms to the neckline of the chosen shirt. If the necklace is longer, it should fall modestly underneath the shirt, rather than drape visibly over it.
Selecting jewelry gifts: For women & men
A gift for yourself
Today, jewelry is available in a tremendous array of styles, materials, and price ranges, and absolutely anything goes - to an extent unparalleled in history. The wearer may unabashedly determine his or her favorite look: Traditional tribal jewelry, historic and period replica jewelry; gemstone, glass, beads, amber, natural or cultured pearls, dried flower jewelry; gold, silver, bronze, copper, tin, leather; fine, fashion, or costume jewelry; simple or wildly ornate, delicate or bold. Discover the look that most resonates with you (and - most importantly - enjoy!).
A gift for her
Jewelry is considered a precious, personal, important gift. Gifted by a loved one, it will be treasured and appreciated no matter the style, material, or cost. To insure that your gift receives plentiful use, the best rule of thumb is to give something you would expect to see her wear. Does she often wear chokers? Cuff bracelets? Bangles? Drop earrings? Choose a style you've seen on her before, and you'll be in safe territory! If she wears silver, choose silver. If she tends toward gold, try gold. If you haven't seen her wear much jewelry, a simple, elegant necklace is your best bet, perhaps featuring her birthstone - or a beautiful heart! It is always ideal to give what the recipient is most likely to desire, even if that is not necessarily what you are most eager to see the recipient wear! Do remember that rings carry with them tremendous implied significance, so be sure you're intending to seriously tantalize her with future possibilities before you gift her with even a pinky ring!
A gift for him
The trend regarding male jewelry remains: Manly and minimal. A classic watch has long been considered the essential item of jewelry for a man. Simple bracelets can also be quite manly and alluring. Cuff links, tie clips and pins, money clips, rings, necklaces, and perhaps an unadorned earring may also be considered for men, if they are already known to wear such jewelry.When considering bracelets, simple silver links and natural fiber bracelets look handsome and masculine. Likewise, necklaces of basic natural materials are considered attractive today. Remember, the simpler the better when choosing a style for a man. Natural fiber necklaces, plain silver necklaces, bead, leather, shell, wood, or seed necklaces for an outdoorsman or surfer might be apropos - nothing lengthy, nor thin and dainty.
Anniversary Jewelry (contemporary standard)
- 10th Anniversary: Diamonds
- 11th Anniversary: Fashion jewelry
- 12th Anniversary: Pearls
- 14th Anniversary: Gold
- 15th Anniversary: Watches
- 20th Anniversary: Platinum
- 25th Anniversary: Silver
- 30th Anniversary: Diamond
- 35th Anniversary: Jade
- 40th Anniversary: Ruby
- 45th Anniversary: Sapphire
- 50th Anniversary: Gold
- 55th Anniversary: Emerald
- 60th Anniversary: Diamond
Birthstones
- January: garnet
- February: amethyst
- March: aquamarine (alternately bloodstone)
- April: diamond
- May: emerald
- June: pearl (alternately moonstone)
- July: ruby
- August: peridot (alternately carnelian)
- September: sapphire
- October: opal (alternately lapis lazuli)
- November: topaz (alternately citrine)
- December: turquoise, blue topaz (alternately tourmaline)
Zodiac Gems
- Aquarius the Water Bearer (January 20 - February 18): garnet
- Pisces the Fishes (January 20 - February 18): amethyst
- Aries the Ram (March 21 - April 19): bloodstone
- Taurus the Bull (April 20 - May 20): sapphire
- Gemini the Twins (May 21 - June 21): agate
- Cancer the Crab (June 22 - July 22): emerald
- Leo the Lion (July 23 - August 22): onyx
- Virgo the Virgin (August 23 - September 22): carnelian
- Libra the Balance (September 23 - October 23): peridot
- Scorpio the Scorpion (October 24 - November 21): aquamarine
- Sagittarius the Archer (November 22 - December 21): topaz
- Capricorn the Goat (December 22 - January 19): ruby
Today, jewelry is available in a tremendous array of styles, materials, and price ranges, and absolutely anything goes - to an extent unparalleled in history. The wearer may unabashedly determine his or her favorite look: Traditional tribal jewelry, historic and period replica jewelry; gemstone, glass, beads, amber, natural or cultured pearls, dried flower jewelry; gold, silver, bronze, copper, tin, leather; fine, fashion, or costume jewelry; simple or wildly ornate, delicate or bold. Discover the look that most resonates with you (and - most importantly - enjoy!).
A gift for her
Jewelry is considered a precious, personal, important gift. Gifted by a loved one, it will be treasured and appreciated no matter the style, material, or cost. To insure that your gift receives plentiful use, the best rule of thumb is to give something you would expect to see her wear. Does she often wear chokers? Cuff bracelets? Bangles? Drop earrings? Choose a style you've seen on her before, and you'll be in safe territory! If she wears silver, choose silver. If she tends toward gold, try gold. If you haven't seen her wear much jewelry, a simple, elegant necklace is your best bet, perhaps featuring her birthstone - or a beautiful heart! It is always ideal to give what the recipient is most likely to desire, even if that is not necessarily what you are most eager to see the recipient wear! Do remember that rings carry with them tremendous implied significance, so be sure you're intending to seriously tantalize her with future possibilities before you gift her with even a pinky ring!
A gift for him
The trend regarding male jewelry remains: Manly and minimal. A classic watch has long been considered the essential item of jewelry for a man. Simple bracelets can also be quite manly and alluring. Cuff links, tie clips and pins, money clips, rings, necklaces, and perhaps an unadorned earring may also be considered for men, if they are already known to wear such jewelry.When considering bracelets, simple silver links and natural fiber bracelets look handsome and masculine. Likewise, necklaces of basic natural materials are considered attractive today. Remember, the simpler the better when choosing a style for a man. Natural fiber necklaces, plain silver necklaces, bead, leather, shell, wood, or seed necklaces for an outdoorsman or surfer might be apropos - nothing lengthy, nor thin and dainty.
Anniversary Jewelry (contemporary standard)
- 10th Anniversary: Diamonds
- 11th Anniversary: Fashion jewelry
- 12th Anniversary: Pearls
- 14th Anniversary: Gold
- 15th Anniversary: Watches
- 20th Anniversary: Platinum
- 25th Anniversary: Silver
- 30th Anniversary: Diamond
- 35th Anniversary: Jade
- 40th Anniversary: Ruby
- 45th Anniversary: Sapphire
- 50th Anniversary: Gold
- 55th Anniversary: Emerald
- 60th Anniversary: Diamond
Birthstones
- January: garnet
- February: amethyst
- March: aquamarine (alternately bloodstone)
- April: diamond
- May: emerald
- June: pearl (alternately moonstone)
- July: ruby
- August: peridot (alternately carnelian)
- September: sapphire
- October: opal (alternately lapis lazuli)
- November: topaz (alternately citrine)
- December: turquoise, blue topaz (alternately tourmaline)
Zodiac Gems
- Aquarius the Water Bearer (January 20 - February 18): garnet
- Pisces the Fishes (January 20 - February 18): amethyst
- Aries the Ram (March 21 - April 19): bloodstone
- Taurus the Bull (April 20 - May 20): sapphire
- Gemini the Twins (May 21 - June 21): agate
- Cancer the Crab (June 22 - July 22): emerald
- Leo the Lion (July 23 - August 22): onyx
- Virgo the Virgin (August 23 - September 22): carnelian
- Libra the Balance (September 23 - October 23): peridot
- Scorpio the Scorpion (October 24 - November 21): aquamarine
- Sagittarius the Archer (November 22 - December 21): topaz
- Capricorn the Goat (December 22 - January 19): ruby
A brief history of jewelry
Men and women have adorned themselves with jewelry since long before the age of reason!Garlands of flowers, bracelets of woven grass, shells, and stone; such were the first decorations to beautify the human body.
We may have been wearing jewelry as far back as 75,000 years ago - 30,000 years earlier than previously believed - according to a recent report by National Geographic News.Over the millennia, jewelry styles and materials have evolved in step with the advances of civilization.
From the Stone Age to the Bronze Age, from the Iron Age to the Industrial Revolution (and seemingly back again!), jewelry styles have transformed, modernized, and then often returned to their most basic forms and essential elements.So, too, has the significance of jewelry evolved through the ages.
Fundamentally, jewelry has always remained an adornment, but an adornment that variously transformed into a symbol of love, religion, wealth, prestige, rank, class, and sometimes authority.
Historically, rings in particular have held significant import beyond mere physical enhancement. Clergy prized "heavenly" blue sapphire rings.
Signet rings have served as official seals. Others have considered rings as icons of physical and spiritual protection, bearers of magic strengths and powers.
Rings have served as modes of identification - religious, political, institutional, and educational, and they have even served as pass keys into secret societies.In the 1st Century A.D., rings of thin iron were given to brides-to-be in Rome. It may not have been until 1475, in Italy, when Constanzo Sforza gave Camillia d'Aragona a diamond ring to signify their betrothal that the tradition of diamond engagement rings began.
In many cultures, at various times, jewelry and jewelry beads have been used as currency. Perhaps most memorably, in relatively recent history, in 1626, Native Americans accepted too few strings of European glass beads from a Dutch immigrant in trade for the island now known as Manhattan.
Three centuries later, in 1916, the renowned jeweler Jacques Cartier traded just two pearl necklaces for a parcel of land in Manhattan - where he opened his first store.Precious metals, stones, pearls, and beads have carried a host of meanings, intentions, and significance, depending on the era and the culture. Love tokens, lockets containing a portrait or snippet of hair, Victorian jet mourning jewelry, Burmese rubies inserted beneath the skin to protect warriors in battle.
Jewelry has acquired, shed, and in many cases re-acquired a multitude of intriguing meanings.In that same spirit of transformation, in different regions of the world, jewelry has attached itself to different parts of the body.In India, jewelry has long reigned supreme and extravagant, ornamenting almost every aspect of a woman, from hair to nose to ankle to toe.
Jewelry likewise found its way to the feet in 18th Century England, but there, it was attached to shoes instead of toes, transforming mundane moccasins into ornately buckled masterpieces.The 21st Century has renewed the ancient rave and reverence for jewelry, and perhaps even taken it to new heights, again from hair to toe - and this time, absolutely everywhere imaginable in between!
We may have been wearing jewelry as far back as 75,000 years ago - 30,000 years earlier than previously believed - according to a recent report by National Geographic News.Over the millennia, jewelry styles and materials have evolved in step with the advances of civilization.
From the Stone Age to the Bronze Age, from the Iron Age to the Industrial Revolution (and seemingly back again!), jewelry styles have transformed, modernized, and then often returned to their most basic forms and essential elements.So, too, has the significance of jewelry evolved through the ages.
Fundamentally, jewelry has always remained an adornment, but an adornment that variously transformed into a symbol of love, religion, wealth, prestige, rank, class, and sometimes authority.
Historically, rings in particular have held significant import beyond mere physical enhancement. Clergy prized "heavenly" blue sapphire rings.
Signet rings have served as official seals. Others have considered rings as icons of physical and spiritual protection, bearers of magic strengths and powers.
Rings have served as modes of identification - religious, political, institutional, and educational, and they have even served as pass keys into secret societies.In the 1st Century A.D., rings of thin iron were given to brides-to-be in Rome. It may not have been until 1475, in Italy, when Constanzo Sforza gave Camillia d'Aragona a diamond ring to signify their betrothal that the tradition of diamond engagement rings began.
In many cultures, at various times, jewelry and jewelry beads have been used as currency. Perhaps most memorably, in relatively recent history, in 1626, Native Americans accepted too few strings of European glass beads from a Dutch immigrant in trade for the island now known as Manhattan.
Three centuries later, in 1916, the renowned jeweler Jacques Cartier traded just two pearl necklaces for a parcel of land in Manhattan - where he opened his first store.Precious metals, stones, pearls, and beads have carried a host of meanings, intentions, and significance, depending on the era and the culture. Love tokens, lockets containing a portrait or snippet of hair, Victorian jet mourning jewelry, Burmese rubies inserted beneath the skin to protect warriors in battle.
Jewelry has acquired, shed, and in many cases re-acquired a multitude of intriguing meanings.In that same spirit of transformation, in different regions of the world, jewelry has attached itself to different parts of the body.In India, jewelry has long reigned supreme and extravagant, ornamenting almost every aspect of a woman, from hair to nose to ankle to toe.
Jewelry likewise found its way to the feet in 18th Century England, but there, it was attached to shoes instead of toes, transforming mundane moccasins into ornately buckled masterpieces.The 21st Century has renewed the ancient rave and reverence for jewelry, and perhaps even taken it to new heights, again from hair to toe - and this time, absolutely everywhere imaginable in between!
Sunday, January 13, 2008
CARING FOR YOUR DIAMOND
Diamonds may be the hardest substance known to man, but they still can be damaged or dulled. Your diamond jewelry will benefit from the following tips:
1 - Don't jumble your diamond jewelry together or with other pieces, because diamonds can scratch other jewelry and each other.
2 - Keep your diamond jewelry in a fabric-lined jewel case or in a box with compartments or dividers.
3 - Don't wear your diamonds when doing rough work Even though a diamond is durable, it can be chipped by a hard blow.
4 - Clean your diamonds regularly using either commercial jewelry cleaner, a mix of ammonia and water, or a mild detergent. Dip the jewelry into the solution, and use a soft brush to dislodge dust or dirt from under the setting.
5 - Don't let your diamond come in contact with chlorine bleach or other chemicals, because they can pit or discolor the mounting.
6 - See your jeweler at least once a year to have your jewelry professionally cleaned and checked for loose prongs and wear.
KARAT GOLD JEWELRY
Gold, one of the world's most precious metals, dates back to the dawn of mankind. All civilizations built up to treasuries of the lustrous metal, reserving golden objects for their most important rituals.
However, the most alluring use of the sun-colored metal has always been in jewelry.
The Egyptians, largest producers of gold in ancient world, equated gold with the sun, the giver of life, and reserved its use for pharaohs only.
The ancient Etruscans created meticulously handwrought objects using fine granules and threads of gold, a technique still practiced today.
To this day, Chinese and Indian brides wear jewelry of no less than 24-karat gold on their wedding day to ensure a lifetime of good luck and happiness.
And, a gift of gold jewelry says love and permanence as eloquently today as in all the ages past.
The Uniqueness of Gold:
Of all the world's precious metals, only gold combines the four basic characteristics that make it a universally treasured possession.
Beauty - Gold's natural color can be further enhanced by alloying it with small amounts of other metals, yielding a spectrum of exquisite, subtle shades. Metalsmiths are able to create yellow, rose, green, and white golds by adjusting the alloys. More copper results in a softer rose color; additional silver creates green gold; and palladium produces white. A popular trend is to combine two or more colors of gold in a single piece of jewelry.
Purity - It is estimated that only slightly more than 100,000 tons of gold have been taken from the earth during all of recorded history. And although gold can be found in rivers, seas and land in many parts of the earth, it is not easily extracted. Opening a mine is a time-consuming and costly operation, and several tons of ore are required in order to produce just one ounce of the precious metal.
Durability - Look no further than the nearest museum where gold jewelry, coins and artifacts from ancient civilizations attest to the metal's enduring beauty and permanence.
Workability - Jewelers throughout the ages have preferred gold to all other metals for its beauty and ease of workmanship. Gold can be melted, or shaped, to create any design. It can be alloyed with a number of other metals to increase its strength and produce a variety of colors and can be re-melted and used again to create new designs.
How To Buy Karat Gold Jewelry:
Look for the quality mark. Pure gold, or 24-karat, is generally considered too soft for use in jewelry, so it is alloyed with other metals to increase its strength.
Eighteen-karat gold is 18/24ths, or three-quarters pure gold. Jewelry of this fineness is marked "18K" or "750", the European designation meaning 75 percent gold.
In United States, 14-karat gold is used most commonly for jewelry. Fourteen-karat gold is 14/24ths, or slightly more than one-half pure gold. Jewelry of this fineness is marked "14k" or "585", the European designation meaning 58.5 gold.
Nothing less than 10-karat gold can be legally marked or sold as gold jewelry in the United States. These pieces are marked "10k" or "417", the European designation meaning 41.7 percent gold.
Look for trademarks accompanying the quality mark. When a piece of jewelry is stamped with a quality mark,law requires that it be stamped with a hallmark or trademark as well. Sometimes the jewelry is also marked with its country of origin. These designations are designed to assure you that you are buying genuine gold jewelry of the karatage marked.
Gold come in a variety of colors. Because gold is alloyed with other metals to increase its strength, it can also be made in a variety of colors.
Caring for Your Gold Jewelry:
Remember that gold is lasting and durable but can get scratched or dented if treated roughly.
Gold's worst enemy is chlorine. Repeated exposure can weaken gold's structure, eventually leading to breakage.
Protect your gold jewelry by storing it safely or keeping it wrapped in a soft cloth when not being worn.
Clean your gold jewelry with a cleaning solution of sudsy lukewarm water, or bring it to a jewelry to be steam-cleaned.
Dry and polish with a chamois or soft cloth after cleaning and rinsing
However, the most alluring use of the sun-colored metal has always been in jewelry.
The Egyptians, largest producers of gold in ancient world, equated gold with the sun, the giver of life, and reserved its use for pharaohs only.
The ancient Etruscans created meticulously handwrought objects using fine granules and threads of gold, a technique still practiced today.
To this day, Chinese and Indian brides wear jewelry of no less than 24-karat gold on their wedding day to ensure a lifetime of good luck and happiness.
And, a gift of gold jewelry says love and permanence as eloquently today as in all the ages past.
The Uniqueness of Gold:
Of all the world's precious metals, only gold combines the four basic characteristics that make it a universally treasured possession.
Beauty - Gold's natural color can be further enhanced by alloying it with small amounts of other metals, yielding a spectrum of exquisite, subtle shades. Metalsmiths are able to create yellow, rose, green, and white golds by adjusting the alloys. More copper results in a softer rose color; additional silver creates green gold; and palladium produces white. A popular trend is to combine two or more colors of gold in a single piece of jewelry.
Purity - It is estimated that only slightly more than 100,000 tons of gold have been taken from the earth during all of recorded history. And although gold can be found in rivers, seas and land in many parts of the earth, it is not easily extracted. Opening a mine is a time-consuming and costly operation, and several tons of ore are required in order to produce just one ounce of the precious metal.
Durability - Look no further than the nearest museum where gold jewelry, coins and artifacts from ancient civilizations attest to the metal's enduring beauty and permanence.
Workability - Jewelers throughout the ages have preferred gold to all other metals for its beauty and ease of workmanship. Gold can be melted, or shaped, to create any design. It can be alloyed with a number of other metals to increase its strength and produce a variety of colors and can be re-melted and used again to create new designs.
How To Buy Karat Gold Jewelry:
Look for the quality mark. Pure gold, or 24-karat, is generally considered too soft for use in jewelry, so it is alloyed with other metals to increase its strength.
Eighteen-karat gold is 18/24ths, or three-quarters pure gold. Jewelry of this fineness is marked "18K" or "750", the European designation meaning 75 percent gold.
In United States, 14-karat gold is used most commonly for jewelry. Fourteen-karat gold is 14/24ths, or slightly more than one-half pure gold. Jewelry of this fineness is marked "14k" or "585", the European designation meaning 58.5 gold.
Nothing less than 10-karat gold can be legally marked or sold as gold jewelry in the United States. These pieces are marked "10k" or "417", the European designation meaning 41.7 percent gold.
Look for trademarks accompanying the quality mark. When a piece of jewelry is stamped with a quality mark,law requires that it be stamped with a hallmark or trademark as well. Sometimes the jewelry is also marked with its country of origin. These designations are designed to assure you that you are buying genuine gold jewelry of the karatage marked.
Gold come in a variety of colors. Because gold is alloyed with other metals to increase its strength, it can also be made in a variety of colors.
Caring for Your Gold Jewelry:
Remember that gold is lasting and durable but can get scratched or dented if treated roughly.
Gold's worst enemy is chlorine. Repeated exposure can weaken gold's structure, eventually leading to breakage.
Protect your gold jewelry by storing it safely or keeping it wrapped in a soft cloth when not being worn.
Clean your gold jewelry with a cleaning solution of sudsy lukewarm water, or bring it to a jewelry to be steam-cleaned.
Dry and polish with a chamois or soft cloth after cleaning and rinsing
Sterling Silver
Since the dawn of civilization, men and women have been captivated by silver's spell and splendor. Throughout the ages this mystical white metal has been used to mark historical milestones, celebrations, achievements and special occasions.
No one knows with certainty when the first silver gift was bestowed. But as early as 3100 B.C., ambassadors from Crete were already bring silver vases as gifts for Egyptian rulers. The metal's popularity has even influenced our languages and customs. A silver spoon has symbolized great fortune and privilege since the 17th century when the Spanish writer Cervantes cleverly acknowledged that not everyone was born with one in his mouth. The tradition of the "silver anniversary" dates back to Germany where it was customary to present a silver wreath to a women after 25 years of marriage.
Sterling Silver is a favorite medium for today's most creative and innovative designers due to its affordability and malleability - it can be shaped into almost any form imaginable. A special gift of silver is a touch and lasting expression of affection, friendship, celebration, congratulation or thanks.
Defining the Elements - Silver is an element that occurs naturally in the earth and is generally considered too soft in its pure form for practical use in jewelry, giftware or flatware. An alloy such as copper is usually added to make silver workable for jewelry.
Sterling Silver - Sterling Silver is 92.5 percent (925 parts) pure silver and 7.5 percent (75 parts) alloy metal. Sterling Silver is the primary material used for silver jewelry. The silver content and quality of all silver jewelry and gift items must be accurately represented. The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has established a set of stamps and markings to represent silver content and you should look for them when making a silver purchase.
Only jewelry that is at least 92.5 percent pure silver can be called or labeled "silver," "solid Silver," "sterling silver," or "sterling". If one of these terms is stamped on the silver jewelry you are purchasing then the piece meets the U.S. government standards. Sometimes, a piece will be stamped with "925," ".925," or "92.5." These are also appropriate markings and they assure you that you are buying genuine sterling silver.
Vermeil - Pronounced "vermay", Vermeil is a French word describing sterling silver that has been electroplated with at least 100 millionths of an inch of karat gold.
Caring for your silver: The beauty of sterling silver jewelry and gifts is part of this metal's ageless appeal. Properly caring for your silver collection is a sure way to keep sterling looking its shining best.
As with any fine jewelry or gift item, each piece of sterling silver should be stored individually, either in its own soft pouch or in a separate compartment in a jewelry or storage box. If you toss your jewelry into a dresser drawer and allow pieces to rub against each other, scratches will result.
Keep your silver in a cool, dry place. Sterling Silver, like other precious metals, can oxidize with time. It is a good idea to store silver in a tarnish-proof cloth or in drawers lined with tarnish-resistant strips. If sterling does become tarnished, it is easily restored to its original gleam by using a paste, liquid polish, or a treated polishing cloth intended for use on silver. Or you may simply wash the jewelry or silver objects with warm water, rubbing in a little soap or toothpaste, rising and then patting dry with a fine soft cloth.
Avoid using tissue paper or paper towels as they can scratch silver. Your professional jeweler should be able to provide you with silver-cleaning materials as well as direction for proper use. The best way to prevent tarnish it to actually wear your sterling jewelry or use your items often. However, don't wear sterling silver in chlorinated water or when working with household cleaners such as bleach or ammonia. Treat your silver well and it will actually develop a lush patina and will reward you with a lustrous look.
Reference: Jewelers of American, Inc.
No one knows with certainty when the first silver gift was bestowed. But as early as 3100 B.C., ambassadors from Crete were already bring silver vases as gifts for Egyptian rulers. The metal's popularity has even influenced our languages and customs. A silver spoon has symbolized great fortune and privilege since the 17th century when the Spanish writer Cervantes cleverly acknowledged that not everyone was born with one in his mouth. The tradition of the "silver anniversary" dates back to Germany where it was customary to present a silver wreath to a women after 25 years of marriage.
Sterling Silver is a favorite medium for today's most creative and innovative designers due to its affordability and malleability - it can be shaped into almost any form imaginable. A special gift of silver is a touch and lasting expression of affection, friendship, celebration, congratulation or thanks.
Defining the Elements - Silver is an element that occurs naturally in the earth and is generally considered too soft in its pure form for practical use in jewelry, giftware or flatware. An alloy such as copper is usually added to make silver workable for jewelry.
Sterling Silver - Sterling Silver is 92.5 percent (925 parts) pure silver and 7.5 percent (75 parts) alloy metal. Sterling Silver is the primary material used for silver jewelry. The silver content and quality of all silver jewelry and gift items must be accurately represented. The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has established a set of stamps and markings to represent silver content and you should look for them when making a silver purchase.
Only jewelry that is at least 92.5 percent pure silver can be called or labeled "silver," "solid Silver," "sterling silver," or "sterling". If one of these terms is stamped on the silver jewelry you are purchasing then the piece meets the U.S. government standards. Sometimes, a piece will be stamped with "925," ".925," or "92.5." These are also appropriate markings and they assure you that you are buying genuine sterling silver.
Vermeil - Pronounced "vermay", Vermeil is a French word describing sterling silver that has been electroplated with at least 100 millionths of an inch of karat gold.
Caring for your silver: The beauty of sterling silver jewelry and gifts is part of this metal's ageless appeal. Properly caring for your silver collection is a sure way to keep sterling looking its shining best.
As with any fine jewelry or gift item, each piece of sterling silver should be stored individually, either in its own soft pouch or in a separate compartment in a jewelry or storage box. If you toss your jewelry into a dresser drawer and allow pieces to rub against each other, scratches will result.
Keep your silver in a cool, dry place. Sterling Silver, like other precious metals, can oxidize with time. It is a good idea to store silver in a tarnish-proof cloth or in drawers lined with tarnish-resistant strips. If sterling does become tarnished, it is easily restored to its original gleam by using a paste, liquid polish, or a treated polishing cloth intended for use on silver. Or you may simply wash the jewelry or silver objects with warm water, rubbing in a little soap or toothpaste, rising and then patting dry with a fine soft cloth.
Avoid using tissue paper or paper towels as they can scratch silver. Your professional jeweler should be able to provide you with silver-cleaning materials as well as direction for proper use. The best way to prevent tarnish it to actually wear your sterling jewelry or use your items often. However, don't wear sterling silver in chlorinated water or when working with household cleaners such as bleach or ammonia. Treat your silver well and it will actually develop a lush patina and will reward you with a lustrous look.
Reference: Jewelers of American, Inc.
Saturday, January 12, 2008
Silversmith
A silversmith is a person who works primarily with silver. Unlike blacksmiths, silversmiths do not shape the metal while it is red-hot but instead, work it at room temperature with gentle and carefully placed taps of their hammer.
While silversmiths specialize in, and principally work, silver, they also work with other metals such as gold, copper, steel, and brass.
They make jewellery, silverware, armour, vases, and other artistic items. Because silver is such a malleable metal, silversmiths have a large range of choices with how they prefer to work the metal.
Historically, silversmiths are mostly referred to as goldsmiths, which was usually the same guild.Silver is cheaper than gold, though still valuable, and so is very popular with jewellers who are just starting out and cannot afford to make pieces in gold. Silver has also become very fashionable, and is used frequently in more artistic jewellery pieces.
There are several different types of silversmiths: Some are involved in the fabrication of the metals, where items are typically cut and then constructed with differing connections, such as soldering or riveting. Others work in wax and then cast their pieces using a process called lost wax casting, where the wax original is evaporated in a burn-out process in a kiln.
There are silversmiths who specialize in forging and forming, producing pieces that are typically made from a single piece of metal that has been hammered or formed under the pressure of percussion or squeezing from a press, such as a hydraulic press.
There are silversmiths who only make jewelery and there are silversmiths who only make utensils.Traditionally a Silversmith gets its name from the production of "silverware" (cutlery, bowls, plates, cups, candlesticks and such). Only in more recent times has a silversmith expanded to work on jewellery, due to the similarity in techniques.
Goldsmith
A goldsmith is a metalworker who specializes in working with precious metals, usually, to make jewelry, valuable flatware, platters, goblets, decorative and serviceable utensils, and ceremonial or religious items.
Goldsmiths must be skilled in forming metal through filing, soldering, piercing, sawing, forging, casting, and polishing metal. Traditionally, these skills had been passed along through apprenticeships, however, more recently Jewelry Arts Schools specializing solely in teaching goldsmithing and a multitude of skills falling under the jewelry arts umbrella are now available.
Many Universities and Junior Colleges also offer goldsmithing, silversmithing and metal arts fabrication as a part of their fine arts curriculum. Today, it is not uncommon for a goldsmith to study other arts in order to reflect the social implications of the products of the trade.
Gold and precious metals have been worked by humans in all cultures where the metals were available, either indigenously or imported, and the history of these activities is extensive. Superbly made objects from the ancient cultures of Europe, Africa, India, Asia, South America, Mesoamerica, and North America grace museums and collections around the world.
In medieval Europe goldsmiths were organized in guilds and were usually one of the most important and wealthy of the guilds in a city. The guild kept records of members and the marks they used on their products. These records are very useful to historians, where they to survive.
Goldsmiths often acted as bankers, since they dealt in gold and had sufficient security for the safe storage of valuable items. In the Middle Ages, goldsmithing normally included silversmithing as well, but the brass workers and workers in other base metals were normally in a separate guild since the trades were not allowed to overlap. Usually jewelers were goldsmiths.
The printmaking technique of engraving developed among goldsmiths in Germany around 1430, who had long used the technique on their metal pieces. The notable engravers of the 1400s either were goldsmiths, as was Master E. S., or the sons of goldsmiths, such as Martin Schongauer and Albrecht Dürer.
Goldsmiths must be skilled in forming metal through filing, soldering, piercing, sawing, forging, casting, and polishing metal. Traditionally, these skills had been passed along through apprenticeships, however, more recently Jewelry Arts Schools specializing solely in teaching goldsmithing and a multitude of skills falling under the jewelry arts umbrella are now available.
Many Universities and Junior Colleges also offer goldsmithing, silversmithing and metal arts fabrication as a part of their fine arts curriculum. Today, it is not uncommon for a goldsmith to study other arts in order to reflect the social implications of the products of the trade.
Gold and precious metals have been worked by humans in all cultures where the metals were available, either indigenously or imported, and the history of these activities is extensive. Superbly made objects from the ancient cultures of Europe, Africa, India, Asia, South America, Mesoamerica, and North America grace museums and collections around the world.
In medieval Europe goldsmiths were organized in guilds and were usually one of the most important and wealthy of the guilds in a city. The guild kept records of members and the marks they used on their products. These records are very useful to historians, where they to survive.
Goldsmiths often acted as bankers, since they dealt in gold and had sufficient security for the safe storage of valuable items. In the Middle Ages, goldsmithing normally included silversmithing as well, but the brass workers and workers in other base metals were normally in a separate guild since the trades were not allowed to overlap. Usually jewelers were goldsmiths.
The printmaking technique of engraving developed among goldsmiths in Germany around 1430, who had long used the technique on their metal pieces. The notable engravers of the 1400s either were goldsmiths, as was Master E. S., or the sons of goldsmiths, such as Martin Schongauer and Albrecht Dürer.
Handmade jewelry
Handmade jewelry is jewelry which has been assembled and formed by hand rather than through the use of machines.
According to the guidelines of the FTC, in order to be stamped or called "handmade" the work must be made without the use of electricity except for polishing Beyond that caveat it can be anything made out of anything that would be considered jewelry.
The American Gem Trade Association Spectrum awards, the Gem Center Idar Oberstein, and the De Beers Awards include awards specifically for handmade jewelry.
Although there is much mass produced jewelry in the world, there are many people who prefer to have work that is hand-crafted by a real artisan, and the arena of hand made jewelry and other items will likely remain healthy because of that fact. Much jewelry that is marked or sold as "hand made" often is not truly so, though it may be essentially so. It can be difficult to do some tasks such as drilling without electricity, but to be truly handmade, every task must be done by human power alone.
According to the guidelines of the FTC, in order to be stamped or called "handmade" the work must be made without the use of electricity except for polishing Beyond that caveat it can be anything made out of anything that would be considered jewelry.
The American Gem Trade Association Spectrum awards, the Gem Center Idar Oberstein, and the De Beers Awards include awards specifically for handmade jewelry.
Although there is much mass produced jewelry in the world, there are many people who prefer to have work that is hand-crafted by a real artisan, and the arena of hand made jewelry and other items will likely remain healthy because of that fact. Much jewelry that is marked or sold as "hand made" often is not truly so, though it may be essentially so. It can be difficult to do some tasks such as drilling without electricity, but to be truly handmade, every task must be done by human power alone.
Art jewelry
Art jewelry is created with a variety of materials not just precious metals and gems. Art jewelry should be compared to expressions of art in other media such as glass, wood, plastics and clay. Art jewelry however has not yet created such a large following and is a relatively small niche, where jewelry is mostly bought by collectors and museums.
Though many consider art jewelry still part of crafts as opposed to real arts (with its appropriate art critics) things are changing considerably, in particular in Germany.
In the 1960s and 1970s the German Government and the commercial jewelry industry decided to foster and heavily support modern jewelry designers, and thus creating a new marketplace. They focused in particular on combined contemporary design with their goldsmithing tradition and jewelry making. At present art jewelry is no longer a niche and many designers are sold in regular jewelry stores.
An example of current trends in art jewelry is the use of modern synthetic materials such a polypropylene, nylon and acrylic. Art jewelers have developed techniques for using these materials to dramatic effect. One example of this is award winning jeweler; Anoush Waddington, a designer working in the UK and selling internationally.
Fashion labels such as Bless, Martin Margiela, Comme des Garcons, etc have had a strong reference nd input in the field of contemporary jewelry.
The American art jewelry scene has not gone through such a phase yet, but the number of collectors, and museums that exhibit (exclusive) art jewelry is growing constantly. The Smithsonian museum, Houston Natural History Museum, Carnegie regularly showcase pieces of contemporary (American) jewelry designers.
Some famous artists who created art jewelry in the past were Calder, Picasso, Man Ray, Meret Oppenheim, Dali and Nevelson. Some of which represented at Sculpture to Wear Gallery in New York City which closed in 1977.
Artwear Gallery owned by Robert Lee Morris continued in this endeavor to showcase jewelry as an art form.A collection of art jewelry can be found at the Schmuckmuseum in Pforzheim Germany.
Jewellery Market
According to a recent KPMG study[38] the largest jewellery market is the United States with a market share of 30.8%, Japan, India and China and the Middle East each with 8 - 9% and finally Italy with 5%. They predict a dramatic change in relative market shares by 2015, where the market share of the United States will have dropped to around 25%, and China and India will increase theirs to over 13%.
The Middle East will remain more or less constant at 9%, whereas Europe's and Japan's marketshare will be halved and become less than 4% for Japan, and less than 3% for the biggest individual European countries: Italy and the UK.
The Middle East will remain more or less constant at 9%, whereas Europe's and Japan's marketshare will be halved and become less than 4% for Japan, and less than 3% for the biggest individual European countries: Italy and the UK.
Body modification
Body modification Young girl from the Padaung tribe.It can be difficult to determine where jewellery leaves off and body modification takes over, because they are different sub-categories of body art. For the most part, jewellery used in body modification is plain; the use of simple silver studs, rings and earrings predominates.
In fact, common jewellery pieces such as earrings, are themselves a form of body modification, as they are accommodated by creating a small hole in the human ear.
Padaung women in Myanmar place large golden rings around their necks. From as early as 5 years old, girls are introduced to their first neck ring. Over the years, more rings are added.
In addition to the twenty-plus pounds of rings on her neck, a woman will also wear just as many rings on her calves too. At their extent, some necks modified like this can reach 10-15 inches long; the practice has obvious health impacts, however, and has in recent years declined from cultural norm to tourist curiosity.[36] Tribes related to the Paduang, as well as other cultures throughout the world, use jewellery to stretch their earlobes, or enlarge ear piercings. In the Americas, labrets have been worn since before first contact by innu and first nations peoples of the northwest coast.
Lip plates are worn by the African Mursi and Sara people, as well as some South American peoples.
In the late 20th century, the influence of modern primitivism led to many of these practices being incorporated into western subcultures. Many of these practices rely on a combination of body modification and decorative objects; thus keeping the distinction between these two types of decoration blurred. As with other forms of jewellery, the crossing of cultural boundaries is one of the more significant features of the artform in the early 21st century.
In many cultures, jewellery is used as a temporary body modifier, with in some cases, hooks or even objects as large as bike bars being placed into the recipient's skin. Although this procedure is often carried out by tribal or semi-tribal groups, often acting under a trance during religious ceremonies, this practise has seeped into western culture.
Many extreme-jewellery shops now cater to people wanting large hooks or spikes set into their skin.
Most often, these hooks are used in conjunction with pulleys to hoist the recipient into the air. This practise is said to give an erotic feeling to the person and some couples have even performed their marriage ceremony whist being suspended by hooks.
In fact, common jewellery pieces such as earrings, are themselves a form of body modification, as they are accommodated by creating a small hole in the human ear.
Padaung women in Myanmar place large golden rings around their necks. From as early as 5 years old, girls are introduced to their first neck ring. Over the years, more rings are added.
In addition to the twenty-plus pounds of rings on her neck, a woman will also wear just as many rings on her calves too. At their extent, some necks modified like this can reach 10-15 inches long; the practice has obvious health impacts, however, and has in recent years declined from cultural norm to tourist curiosity.[36] Tribes related to the Paduang, as well as other cultures throughout the world, use jewellery to stretch their earlobes, or enlarge ear piercings. In the Americas, labrets have been worn since before first contact by innu and first nations peoples of the northwest coast.
Lip plates are worn by the African Mursi and Sara people, as well as some South American peoples.
In the late 20th century, the influence of modern primitivism led to many of these practices being incorporated into western subcultures. Many of these practices rely on a combination of body modification and decorative objects; thus keeping the distinction between these two types of decoration blurred. As with other forms of jewellery, the crossing of cultural boundaries is one of the more significant features of the artform in the early 21st century.
In many cultures, jewellery is used as a temporary body modifier, with in some cases, hooks or even objects as large as bike bars being placed into the recipient's skin. Although this procedure is often carried out by tribal or semi-tribal groups, often acting under a trance during religious ceremonies, this practise has seeped into western culture.
Many extreme-jewellery shops now cater to people wanting large hooks or spikes set into their skin.
Most often, these hooks are used in conjunction with pulleys to hoist the recipient into the air. This practise is said to give an erotic feeling to the person and some couples have even performed their marriage ceremony whist being suspended by hooks.
Modern Jewelry
A necklace of white round pearls.Modern jewellery has never been as diverse as it is in the present day. The modern jewellery movement began in the late 1940s at the end of World War II with a renewed interest in artistic and leisurely pursuits. The movement is most noted with works by Georg Jensen and other jewellery designers who advanced the concept of wearable art.
The advent of new materials, such as plastics, Precious Metal Clay (PMC) and different colouring techniques, has led to increased variety in styles. Other advances, such as the development of improved pearl harvesting by people such as Kokichi Mikimoto and the development of improved quality artificial gemstones such as moissanite (a diamond simulant), has placed jewellery within the economic grasp of a much larger segment of the population.
The "jewellery as art" movement, spearheaded by artisans such as Robert Lee Morris and continued by designers such as Anoush Waddington in the UK, has kept jewellery on the leading edge of artistic design. Influence from other cultural forms is also evident; one example of this is bling-bling style jewellery, popularized by hip-hop and rap artists in the early 21st century. With the world's designs more accessible to jewellers, designs have blended in aspects from many different cultures from many different periods in time.
The late 20th century saw the blending of European design with oriental techniques such as Mokume-gane. The following are noted as the primary innovations in the decades stadling the year 2000: "Mokume-gane, hydraulic die forming, anti-clastic raising, fold-forming, reactive metal anodizing, shell forms, PMC, photoetching, and [use of] CAD/CAM."
Artisan jewellery continues to grow as both a hobby and a profession. With more than 17 U.S. periodicals about beading alone, resources, accessibility and a low initial cost of entry continues to expand production of hand-made adornments. Popular because of its uniqueness, artisan jewellery can be found in just about any price range. Some fine examples of artisan jewellery can be seen at The Metropolitan.
The advent of new materials, such as plastics, Precious Metal Clay (PMC) and different colouring techniques, has led to increased variety in styles. Other advances, such as the development of improved pearl harvesting by people such as Kokichi Mikimoto and the development of improved quality artificial gemstones such as moissanite (a diamond simulant), has placed jewellery within the economic grasp of a much larger segment of the population.
The "jewellery as art" movement, spearheaded by artisans such as Robert Lee Morris and continued by designers such as Anoush Waddington in the UK, has kept jewellery on the leading edge of artistic design. Influence from other cultural forms is also evident; one example of this is bling-bling style jewellery, popularized by hip-hop and rap artists in the early 21st century. With the world's designs more accessible to jewellers, designs have blended in aspects from many different cultures from many different periods in time.
The late 20th century saw the blending of European design with oriental techniques such as Mokume-gane. The following are noted as the primary innovations in the decades stadling the year 2000: "Mokume-gane, hydraulic die forming, anti-clastic raising, fold-forming, reactive metal anodizing, shell forms, PMC, photoetching, and [use of] CAD/CAM."
Artisan jewellery continues to grow as both a hobby and a profession. With more than 17 U.S. periodicals about beading alone, resources, accessibility and a low initial cost of entry continues to expand production of hand-made adornments. Popular because of its uniqueness, artisan jewellery can be found in just about any price range. Some fine examples of artisan jewellery can be seen at The Metropolitan.
Pacific
Main article: Jewellery in the PacificJewellery making in the Pacific started later than in other areas because of relatively recent human settlement. Early Pacific jewellery was made of bone, wood and other natural materials, and thus, has not survived. Most Pacific jewellery is worn above the waist, with headdresses, necklaces, hair pins and arm and waist belts being the most common pieces amongst island cultures. Jewellery made of flowers in Hawaii are called leis and are now commonly associated with that area and its relaxed, tourist friendly attitude.
Jewellery in the Pacific, with the exception of Australia, is worn to be a symbol of either fertility or power.
Elaborate headdresses are worn by many Pacific cultures and some, such as the inhabitants of Papua New Guinea, wear certain headresses once they have killed an enemy. Like the typical tribal cliché, many tribesman wear boar bones through their noses.
Island jewellery is still very much primal because of the lack of communication with outside cultures; some areas of Borneo and Papua New Guinea are yet to be explored by Western nations.
However, the island nations which were flooded with Western missionaries have had drastic changes made to their jewellery designs. Missionaries saw any type of tribal jewellery as a sign of the wearer's devotion to paganism. Thus many tribal designs were lost forever in the mass conversion to Christianity.
A modern opal bracelet from Australia.Australia is now the number one supplier of opals in the world. Although Australia wasn’t colonised until later on in history, it is now famous for its vast supplies of opals. Opals had already been mined in Europe and South America for many years prior, but in the late 1800’s, the Australian opal market entered as the dominant producer of opals. Australian opals are only mined in a few select places around the country, making it one the most profitable stones in the Pacific.
One of the few cultures to today still create their jewellery as they did many centuries prior is the New Zealand Māori, who create Hei-tiki.
The reason the hei-tiki is worn is not apparent; it may either relate to ancestral connections, as Tiki was the first Māori, or fertility, as there is a strong connection between this and Tiki.
Another suggestion from historians is that the Tiki is a product of the ancient belief of a god named Tiki, perhaps dating back to before the Māoris settled in New Zealand. Hei-tikis are traditionally carved by hand from bone (commonly whale), nephrite or bowenite; a lengthy and spiritual process. The Hei-tiki is now popular amongst tourists who can buy it from souvenir or jeweller shops.
Other than jewellery created through Māori influence, jewellery in New Zealand remains similar to other western civilizations; multi cultural and varied. This is more noticeable in New Zealand because of its high levels of non-European citizens.
Jewellery in the Pacific, with the exception of Australia, is worn to be a symbol of either fertility or power.
Elaborate headdresses are worn by many Pacific cultures and some, such as the inhabitants of Papua New Guinea, wear certain headresses once they have killed an enemy. Like the typical tribal cliché, many tribesman wear boar bones through their noses.
Island jewellery is still very much primal because of the lack of communication with outside cultures; some areas of Borneo and Papua New Guinea are yet to be explored by Western nations.
However, the island nations which were flooded with Western missionaries have had drastic changes made to their jewellery designs. Missionaries saw any type of tribal jewellery as a sign of the wearer's devotion to paganism. Thus many tribal designs were lost forever in the mass conversion to Christianity.
A modern opal bracelet from Australia.Australia is now the number one supplier of opals in the world. Although Australia wasn’t colonised until later on in history, it is now famous for its vast supplies of opals. Opals had already been mined in Europe and South America for many years prior, but in the late 1800’s, the Australian opal market entered as the dominant producer of opals. Australian opals are only mined in a few select places around the country, making it one the most profitable stones in the Pacific.
One of the few cultures to today still create their jewellery as they did many centuries prior is the New Zealand Māori, who create Hei-tiki.
The reason the hei-tiki is worn is not apparent; it may either relate to ancestral connections, as Tiki was the first Māori, or fertility, as there is a strong connection between this and Tiki.
Another suggestion from historians is that the Tiki is a product of the ancient belief of a god named Tiki, perhaps dating back to before the Māoris settled in New Zealand. Hei-tikis are traditionally carved by hand from bone (commonly whale), nephrite or bowenite; a lengthy and spiritual process. The Hei-tiki is now popular amongst tourists who can buy it from souvenir or jeweller shops.
Other than jewellery created through Māori influence, jewellery in New Zealand remains similar to other western civilizations; multi cultural and varied. This is more noticeable in New Zealand because of its high levels of non-European citizens.
Americas
Jewellery played a major role in the fate of the Americas when the Spanish established an empire to seize South American gold.
Jewellery making developed in the Americas 5,000 years ago in Central and South America. Large amounts of gold was easily accessible, and the Aztecs and Mayans created numerous works in the metal.
Among the Aztecs, only nobility wore gold jewellery, as it showed their rank, power and wealth.
Gold jewellery was most common in the Aztec Empire and was often decorated with feathers from birds.
The main purpose of Aztec jewellery was to draw attention, with richer and more powerful Aztecs wearing brighter, more expensive jewellery and clothes. Although gold was the most common and popular material used in Aztec jewellery, silver was also readily available throughout the American empires.
In addition to adornment and status, the Aztecs also used jewellery in sacrifices to appease the gods. Priests also used gem encrusted daggers to perform animal and human sacrifices.
Another ancient American civilization with expertise in jewellery making was the Maya. At the peak of their civilization, the Maya were making beautiful jewellery from jade, gold, silver, bronze and copper.
Maya designs were similar to those of the Aztecs, with lavish head dresses and jewellery. The Maya also traded in precious gems. However, in earlier times, the Maya had little access to metal, so made the majority of their jewellery out of bone or stone. Merchants and nobility were the only few that wore expensive jewellery in the Maya Empire, much the same as with the Aztecs.
In North America, Native Americans used shells, wood, turquoise, and soapstone, almost unavailable in South and Central America.
The Native Americans utilized the properties of the stone and used it often in their jewellery, particularly in earlier periods. The turquoise was used in necklaces and to be placed in earrings. Native Americans with access to oyster shells, often located in only one location in America, traded the shells with other tribes, showing the great importance of the body adornment trade in Northern America.
Although initially of interest either as a curiosity or a source of raw material, jewellery designs from the Americas has come to play a significant role in modern jewellery.
India
The Indian sub-continent has the longest continuous legacy of jewellery making anywhere. While Western traditions were heavily influenced by waxing and waning empires, India enjoyed a continuous development of art forms for some 5000 years.
One of the first to start jewellery making were the peoples of the Indus Valley Civilization. By 1,500 BC the peoples of the Indus Valley were creating gold earrings and necklaces, bead necklaces and metallic bangles.
Before 2,100 BC, prior to the period when metals were widely used, the largest jewellery trade in the Indus Valley region was the bead trade. Beads in the Indus Valley were made using simple techniques. First, a bead maker would need a rough stone, which would be bought from an eastern stone trader.
The stone would then be placed into a hot oven where it would be heated until it turned deep red, a colour highly prized by people of the Indus Valley.
The red stone would then be chipped to the right size and a hole drilled through it with primitive drills.
The beads were then polished. Some beads were also painted with designs. This art form was often passed down through family; children of bead makers often learnt how to work beads from a young age.
Jewellery in the Indus Valley was worn predominantly by females, who wore numerous clay or shell bracelets on their wrists.
They were often shaped like doughnuts and painted black. Over time, clay bangles were discarded for more durable ones. In India today, bangles are made out of metal or glass. Other pieces that women frequently wore were thin bands of gold that would be worn on the forehead, earrings, primitive brooches, chokers and gold rings. The people of the region were much more urbanised than the rest of the area, so the jewellery worn was of heavier make once the civilization developed.
Although women wore jewellery the most, some men in the Indus Valley wore beads. Small beads were often crafted to be placed in men and women’s hair. The beads were so small they usually measured in at only one millimetre long.
Just like many other cultures, Harappan people also believed in life after death and it is testified with the presence of the female skeleton (presently showcased at National Museum, New Delhi, India) wearing a carlinean bacngle on her left hand.
As time progressed, the methods for jewellery advanced, thus allowing complex jewellery to be made. Necklaces were soon adorned with gems and green stone.
Although they used other gems prior, India was the first country to mine diamonds, with some mines dating back to 296 BC. However, axes dating to 4,000 BC found in China from previous factions of the country, contain traces of diamond dust used to sharpen the blades. While China used the diamonds they found mainly for carving jade, India traded the diamonds, realising their valuable qualities.
This trade almost vanished 1,000 years after Christianity grew as a religion, as Christians rejected the diamonds which were used in Indian religious amulets. Along with Arabians from the Middle East restricting the trade, India’s diamond jewellery trade lulled.
Today, many of the jewellery designs and traditions are still used and jewellery is commonplace in Indian ceremonies and weddings.
China
The earliest culture to begin making jewellery in Asia was the Chinese around 5,000 years ago. Chinese jewellery designs were very religion-orientated and contained many Buddhist symbols, a fact which remains to this day.
Jade coiled serpent, Han Dynasty (202 BC-220 AD)The Chinese used silver in their jewellery more often than gold, and decorated it with their favourite colour, blue. Blue kingfisher feathers were tied onto early Chinese jewellery and later, blue gems and glass were incorporated into designs. However, Chinese preferred jade over any other stone. They fashioned it using diamonds, as indicated in finds from areas in the country.
The Chinese revered jade because of the human-like qualities they assigned to it, such as its hardness, durability and beauty.[4] The first jade pieces were very simple, but as time progressed, more complex design evolved. Jade rings from between the 4th and 7th centuries BCE show evidence of having been worked with a compound milling machine; hundreds of years before the first mention of such equipment in the west.
In China, jewellery was worn frequently by both sexes to show their nobility and wealth. However, in later years, it was used to accentuate beauty. Woman wore highly detailed gold and silver head dresses and numerous other items, while men wore decorative hat buttons which showed rank and gold or silver rings. Woman also wore strips of gold on their foreheads, much like women in the Indus Valley.
The band served a purpose like an early form of tiara and it was often decorated with precious gems.
The most common piece of jewellery worn by Chinese was the earring, which was worn by both men and women. Amulets were also common too, often with a Chinese symbol or dragon. In fact, dragons, Chinese symbols and also phoenixes were frequently depicted on jewellery designs.
The Chinese often placed their jewellery in their graves; most Chinese graves found by archaeologists contain decorative jewellery.
Jade coiled serpent, Han Dynasty (202 BC-220 AD)The Chinese used silver in their jewellery more often than gold, and decorated it with their favourite colour, blue. Blue kingfisher feathers were tied onto early Chinese jewellery and later, blue gems and glass were incorporated into designs. However, Chinese preferred jade over any other stone. They fashioned it using diamonds, as indicated in finds from areas in the country.
The Chinese revered jade because of the human-like qualities they assigned to it, such as its hardness, durability and beauty.[4] The first jade pieces were very simple, but as time progressed, more complex design evolved. Jade rings from between the 4th and 7th centuries BCE show evidence of having been worked with a compound milling machine; hundreds of years before the first mention of such equipment in the west.
In China, jewellery was worn frequently by both sexes to show their nobility and wealth. However, in later years, it was used to accentuate beauty. Woman wore highly detailed gold and silver head dresses and numerous other items, while men wore decorative hat buttons which showed rank and gold or silver rings. Woman also wore strips of gold on their foreheads, much like women in the Indus Valley.
The band served a purpose like an early form of tiara and it was often decorated with precious gems.
The most common piece of jewellery worn by Chinese was the earring, which was worn by both men and women. Amulets were also common too, often with a Chinese symbol or dragon. In fact, dragons, Chinese symbols and also phoenixes were frequently depicted on jewellery designs.
The Chinese often placed their jewellery in their graves; most Chinese graves found by archaeologists contain decorative jewellery.
Asia Jewellery
Asia Jewellery making in Asia started in China 5,000 years ago and in the Indus Valley region later on. With roots set deep in religious designs, Asian jewellery was very decorative and used most often in ceremonies.
Jewish jewellery
In the Jewish culture jewellery have played an important role since biblical times. We could see many references in the bible to the custom of wearing jewellery both as a decoration and as a symbol. In recent times, Jewish jewellery are wildly spread and are worn to show one's affiliation with the religion and as talismans and amulets.
The Star of David ("Magen David" in Hebrew) is the symbol most recognized with Judaism. It was used in land of Israel in Roman times, but it seems to have become associated with Judaism in particular only in later centuries.
In the 17th century It became a popular practice to put Star of David on the outside of synagogues, to identify them as Jewish houses of worship; however, it is not clear why this symbol was selected for this. Today the Star of David is a universally recognized symbol of Jews.
It appears on the flag of the state of Israel, and the Israeli equivalent of the Red Cross is known as "the Magen David Adom" ("Adom" is red in Hebrew). Indeed, one of the most common symbols in Jewish jewellery is the Star of David, equivalent to wearing a cross by Christians.
Another popular symbol used in Jewish jewellery is the Hamsa, also known as the "Hamesh hand". The Hamsa appears often in a stylized form, as a hand with three fingers raised, and sometimes with two thumbs arranged symmetrically. Its five fingers are said to symbolize the five books if the Torah.
The symbol is used for protection and as a mean to ward of the Evil eye in amulets and charms and can also be found in various places such as home entrances and cars. It is also common to place other symbols in the middle of the Hamsa that are believed to help against the evil eye such as fish, eyes and the Star of David.
The colour blue, or more specifically light blue, is also considered protective against the evil eye and we could see many Hamsas in that colour or with embedded gemstones in different shades of blue. Hamsas are often decorated with Jewish prayers of a protective fashion such as the Sh'ma Prayer, the Birkat HaBayit (Blessing for the Home), or the Tefilat HaDerech (Traveler's Prayer).
The Chai symbol, popularly worn on necklaces, is simply the Hebrew word "Chai" (literally means 'living'), consisting of the two Hebrew letters Chet and Yod. This word refers to the Living G-d. According to the gematrian system, the letters of Chai add up to 18.
There have been many mystical numerological speculations about this fact and the custom to give donations and monetary gifts in multiples of 18 as a blessing for long life is very common in Jewish circles.
Other motives commonly found in Jewish jewellery are symbols from the Kabbalah (also known as kabala, cabala) such as the Merkaba, a three-dimensional Star of David, and the Tree of life. Many pieces of jewellery are decorated with parts or initials of known Jewish prayers and with 3-letters combinations, believed to represent different names of the Jewish God.
Art Nouveau
Art NouveauIn the 1890s, jewellers began to explore the potentials of the growing Art Nouveau style. Very closely related were the German Jugendstil, British (and to some extent American) Arts and Crafts movement. René Lalique, working for the Paris shop of Samuel Bing, was recognized by contemporaries as a leading figure in this trend.
The Darmstadt Artists' Colony and Wiener Werkstaette provided perhaps the most significant German input to the trend, while in Denmark Georg Jensen, though best known for his Silverware, also contributed significant pieces. In England, Liberty & Co and the British arts & crafts movement of Charles Robert Ashbee contributed slightly more linear but still characteristic designs.
The new style moved the focus of the jeweller's art from the setting of stones to the artistic design of the piece itself; Lalique's famous dragonfly design is one of the best examples of this. Enamels played a large role in technique, while sinuous organic lines are the most recognizable design feature. The end of World War One once again changed public attitudes; and a more sober style was set to take centre-stage.
The Darmstadt Artists' Colony and Wiener Werkstaette provided perhaps the most significant German input to the trend, while in Denmark Georg Jensen, though best known for his Silverware, also contributed significant pieces. In England, Liberty & Co and the British arts & crafts movement of Charles Robert Ashbee contributed slightly more linear but still characteristic designs.
The new style moved the focus of the jeweller's art from the setting of stones to the artistic design of the piece itself; Lalique's famous dragonfly design is one of the best examples of this. Enamels played a large role in technique, while sinuous organic lines are the most recognizable design feature. The end of World War One once again changed public attitudes; and a more sober style was set to take centre-stage.
Romanticism
Mourning jewellery: Jet Brooch, 19th century.Starting in the late 18th century, Romanticism had a profound impact on the development of western jewellery. Perhaps the most significant influences were the public’s fascination with the treasures being discovered through the birth of modern archaeology, and the fascination with Medieval and Renaissance art.
Changing social conditions and the onset of the industrial revolution also lead to growth of a middle class that wanted and could afford jewellery. As a result, the use of industrial processes, cheaper alloys, and stone substitutes, lead to the development of paste or costume jewellery.
Distinguished goldsmiths continued to flourish, however, as wealthier patrons sought to ensure that what they wore still stood apart from the jewellery of the masses, not only through use of precious metals and stones but also though superior artistic and technical work; one such artist was the French goldsmith Françoise Désire Fromment Meurice. A category unique to this period and quite appropriate to the philosophy of romanticism was mourning jewellery. It originated in England, where Queen Victoria was often seen wearing jet jewellery after the death of Prince Albert; and allowed the wearer to continue wearing jewellery while expressing a state of mourning at the death of a loved one.
In the United states, this period saw the founding in 1837 of Tiffany & Co. by Charles Lewis Tiffany. Tiffany's put the United States on the world map in terms of jewellery, and gained fame creating dazzling commissions for people such as the wife of Abraham Lincoln; later it would gain popular notoriety as the setting of the film Breakfast at Tiffany's. In France, Pierre Cartier founded Cartier SA in 1847, while 1884 saw the founding of Bulgari in Italy. The modern production studio had been born; a step away from the former dominance of individual craftsmen and patronage.
This period also saw the first major collaboration between East and West; collaboration in Pforzheim between German and Japanese artists lead to Shakudo plaques set into Filigree frames being created by the Stoeffler firm in 1885).[26] Perhaps the grand finalé – and an appropriate transition to the following period – were the masterful creations of the Russian artist Peter Carl Fabergé, working for the Imperial Russian court, whose Fabergé eggs and jewellery pieces are still considered as the epitome of the goldsmith’s art.
Renaissance
Sardonyx cameo.The Renaissance and exploration both had significant impacts on the development of jewellery in Europe. By the 17th century, increasing exploration and trade lead to increased availability of a wide variety of gemstones as well as exposure to the art of other cultures. Whereas prior to this the working of gold and precious metal had been at the forefront of jewellery, this period saw increasing dominance of gemstones and their settings.
A fascinating example of this is the Cheapside Hoard, the stock of a jeweller hidden in London England during the Commonwealth period and not found again until 1912. It contained Colombian emerald, topaz, amazonite from Brazil, spinel, iolite, and chrysoberyl from Sri Lanka, ruby from India, Afghani lapis lazuli, Persian turquoise, Red Sea peridot, as well as Bohemian and Hungarian opal, garnet, and amethyst. Large stones were frequently set in box-bezels on enamelled rings.[24] Notable among merchants of the period was Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, who in the 1660s brought the precursor stone of the Hope Diamond to France.
When Napoleon Bonaparte was crowned as Emperor of the French in 1804, he revived the style and grandeur of jewellery and fashion in France. Under Napoleon’s rule, jewellers introduced parures, suites of matching jewellery, such as a diamond tiara, diamond earrings, diamond rings, a diamond brooch and a diamond necklace. Both of Napoleon’s wives had beautiful sets such as these and wore them regularly. Another fashion trend resurrected by Napoleon was the cameo.
Soon after his cameo decorated crown was seen, cameos were highly sought after. The period also saw the early stages of costume jewellery, with fish scale covered glass beads in place of pearls or conch shell cameos instead of stone cameos.
New terms were coined to differentiate the arts: jewellers who worked in cheaper materials were called bijoutiers, while jewellers who worked with expensive materials were called joailliers; a practice which continues to this day.
A fascinating example of this is the Cheapside Hoard, the stock of a jeweller hidden in London England during the Commonwealth period and not found again until 1912. It contained Colombian emerald, topaz, amazonite from Brazil, spinel, iolite, and chrysoberyl from Sri Lanka, ruby from India, Afghani lapis lazuli, Persian turquoise, Red Sea peridot, as well as Bohemian and Hungarian opal, garnet, and amethyst. Large stones were frequently set in box-bezels on enamelled rings.[24] Notable among merchants of the period was Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, who in the 1660s brought the precursor stone of the Hope Diamond to France.
When Napoleon Bonaparte was crowned as Emperor of the French in 1804, he revived the style and grandeur of jewellery and fashion in France. Under Napoleon’s rule, jewellers introduced parures, suites of matching jewellery, such as a diamond tiara, diamond earrings, diamond rings, a diamond brooch and a diamond necklace. Both of Napoleon’s wives had beautiful sets such as these and wore them regularly. Another fashion trend resurrected by Napoleon was the cameo.
Soon after his cameo decorated crown was seen, cameos were highly sought after. The period also saw the early stages of costume jewellery, with fish scale covered glass beads in place of pearls or conch shell cameos instead of stone cameos.
New terms were coined to differentiate the arts: jewellers who worked in cheaper materials were called bijoutiers, while jewellers who worked with expensive materials were called joailliers; a practice which continues to this day.
Middle Ages
Merovingian fibulae, Bibliothèque Nationale de France. Eagle-shaped Visigothic cloisonné fibula from Guadalajara, Spain. Bronze. 6th century.Post-Roman Europe continued to develop jewellery making skills; the Celts and Merovingians in particular are noted for their jewellery, which in terms of quality matched or exceeded that of Byzantium. Clothing fasteners, amulets, and to a lesser extent signet rings are the most common artefacts known to us; a particularly striking celtic example is the Tara Brooch. The Torc was common throughout Europe as a symbol of status and power.
By the 8th century, jewelled weaponry was common for men, while other jewellery (with the exception of signet rings) seems to become the domain of women. Grave goods found in a 6th-7th century burial near Chalon-sur-Saône are illustrative; the young girl was buried with: 2 silver fibulae, a necklace (with coins), bracelet, gold earings, a pair of hair-pins, comb, and buckle.
The Celts specialized in continuous patterns and designs; while Merovingian designs are best known for stylized animal figures.
They were not the only groups known for high quality work; note the Visigoth work shown here, and the numerous decorative objects found at the Anglo-Saxon Ship burial at Sutton Hoo Suffolk, England, are a particularly well-known example.
On the continent, cloisonné and garnet were perhaps the quintessential method and gemstone of the period.
Byzantine wedding ring.The Eastern successor of the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire, continued many of the methods of the Romans, though religious themes came to predominate.
Unlike the Romans, the Franks, and the Celts, however; Byzantium used light-weight gold leaf rather than solid gold, and more emphasis was placed on stones and gems. As in the West, Byzantine jewellery was worn by wealthier females, with male jewellery apparently restricted to signet rings. Like other contemporary cultures, jewellery was commonly buried with its owner.
By the 8th century, jewelled weaponry was common for men, while other jewellery (with the exception of signet rings) seems to become the domain of women. Grave goods found in a 6th-7th century burial near Chalon-sur-Saône are illustrative; the young girl was buried with: 2 silver fibulae, a necklace (with coins), bracelet, gold earings, a pair of hair-pins, comb, and buckle.
The Celts specialized in continuous patterns and designs; while Merovingian designs are best known for stylized animal figures.
They were not the only groups known for high quality work; note the Visigoth work shown here, and the numerous decorative objects found at the Anglo-Saxon Ship burial at Sutton Hoo Suffolk, England, are a particularly well-known example.
On the continent, cloisonné and garnet were perhaps the quintessential method and gemstone of the period.
Byzantine wedding ring.The Eastern successor of the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire, continued many of the methods of the Romans, though religious themes came to predominate.
Unlike the Romans, the Franks, and the Celts, however; Byzantium used light-weight gold leaf rather than solid gold, and more emphasis was placed on stones and gems. As in the West, Byzantine jewellery was worn by wealthier females, with male jewellery apparently restricted to signet rings. Like other contemporary cultures, jewellery was commonly buried with its owner.
Rome's jewellery
Roman Amethyst intaglio pendant, c. 212 CE; later converted to St. Peter medallion.Although jewellery work was abundantly diverse in earlier times, especially among the barbarian tribes such as the Celts, when the Romans conquered most of Europe, jewellery was changed as smaller factions developed the Roman designs. The most common artefact of early Rome was the brooch, which was used to secure clothing together.
The Romans used a diverse range of materials for their jewellery from their extensive resources across the continent. Although they used gold, they sometimes used bronze or bone and in earlier times, glass beads & pearl. As early as 2,000 years ago, they imported Sri Lankan sapphires and Indian diamonds and used emeralds and amber in their jewellery.
In Roman-ruled England, fossilized wood called jet from Northern England was often carved into pieces of jewellery. The early Italians worked in crude gold and created clasps, necklaces, earrings and bracelets. They also produced larger pendants which could be filled with perfume.
The Romans used a diverse range of materials for their jewellery from their extensive resources across the continent. Although they used gold, they sometimes used bronze or bone and in earlier times, glass beads & pearl. As early as 2,000 years ago, they imported Sri Lankan sapphires and Indian diamonds and used emeralds and amber in their jewellery.
In Roman-ruled England, fossilized wood called jet from Northern England was often carved into pieces of jewellery. The early Italians worked in crude gold and created clasps, necklaces, earrings and bracelets. They also produced larger pendants which could be filled with perfume.
Like the Greeks, often the purpose of Roman jewellery was to ward off the “Evil Eye” given by other people. Although woman wore a vast array of jewellery, men often only wore a finger ring. Although they were expected to wear at least one ring, some Roman men wore a ring on every finger, while others wore none. Roman men and women wore rings with a carved stone on it that was used with wax to seal documents, an act that continued into medieval times when kings and noblemen used the same method. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the jewellery designs were absorbed by neighbouring countries and tribes.
Greece's jewellery
Gold earring from Mycenae, 16th century BCE.The Greeks started using gold and gems in jewellery in 1,400 BC, although beads shaped as shells and animals were produced widely in earlier times. By 300 BC, the Greeks had mastered making coloured jewellery and using amethysts, pearl and emeralds. Also, the first signs of cameos appeared, with the Greeks creating them from Indian Sardonyx, a striped brown pink and cream agate stone. Greek jewellery was often simpler than in other cultures, with simple designs and workmanship. However, as time progressed the designs grew in complexity different materials were soon utilized.
Pendant with naked woman. Electrum, Rhodes, ca. 630-620 BCE.Jewellery in Greece was hardly worn and was mostly used for public appearances or on special occasions. It was frequently given as a gift and was predominantly worn by woman to show their wealth, social status and beauty. The jewellery was often supposed to give the wearer protection from the “Evil Eye” or endowed the owner with supernatural powers, while others had a religious symbolism. Older pieces of jewellery that have been found were dedicated to the Gods. The largest production of jewellery in these times came from Northern Greece and Macedon. However, although much of the jewellery in Greece was made of gold and silver with ivory and gems, bronze and clay copies were made also.
Ancient Greek jewellery from 300 BCE.Jewellery makers in Ancient Greece were largely anonymous. They worked the types of jewellery into two different styles of pieces; cast pieces and pieces hammered out of sheet metal. Fewer pieces of cast jewellery have been recovered; it was made by casting the metal onto two stone or clay moulds. Then the two halves were joined together and wax and then molten metal, was placed in the centre. This technique had been in practised since the late Bronze Age.
The more common form of jewellery was the hammered sheet type. Sheets of metal would be hammered to the right thickness & then soldered together. The inside of the two sheets would be filled with wax or another liquid to preserve the metal work. Different techniques, such as using a stamp or engraving, were then used to create motifs on the jewellery. Jewels may then be added to hollows or glass poured into special cavities on the surface.
The Greeks took much of their designs from outer origins, such as Asia when Alexander the Great conquered part of it. In earlier designs, other European influences can also be detected. When Roman rule came to Greece, no change in jewellery designs was detected. However, by 27 BC, Greek designs were heavily influenced by the Roman culture. That is not to say that indigenous design did not thrive; numerous polychrome butterfly pendants on silver foxtail chains, dating from the 1st century, have been found near Olbia, with only one example ever found anywhere else.
Pendant with naked woman. Electrum, Rhodes, ca. 630-620 BCE.Jewellery in Greece was hardly worn and was mostly used for public appearances or on special occasions. It was frequently given as a gift and was predominantly worn by woman to show their wealth, social status and beauty. The jewellery was often supposed to give the wearer protection from the “Evil Eye” or endowed the owner with supernatural powers, while others had a religious symbolism. Older pieces of jewellery that have been found were dedicated to the Gods. The largest production of jewellery in these times came from Northern Greece and Macedon. However, although much of the jewellery in Greece was made of gold and silver with ivory and gems, bronze and clay copies were made also.
Ancient Greek jewellery from 300 BCE.Jewellery makers in Ancient Greece were largely anonymous. They worked the types of jewellery into two different styles of pieces; cast pieces and pieces hammered out of sheet metal. Fewer pieces of cast jewellery have been recovered; it was made by casting the metal onto two stone or clay moulds. Then the two halves were joined together and wax and then molten metal, was placed in the centre. This technique had been in practised since the late Bronze Age.
The more common form of jewellery was the hammered sheet type. Sheets of metal would be hammered to the right thickness & then soldered together. The inside of the two sheets would be filled with wax or another liquid to preserve the metal work. Different techniques, such as using a stamp or engraving, were then used to create motifs on the jewellery. Jewels may then be added to hollows or glass poured into special cavities on the surface.
The Greeks took much of their designs from outer origins, such as Asia when Alexander the Great conquered part of it. In earlier designs, other European influences can also be detected. When Roman rule came to Greece, no change in jewellery designs was detected. However, by 27 BC, Greek designs were heavily influenced by the Roman culture. That is not to say that indigenous design did not thrive; numerous polychrome butterfly pendants on silver foxtail chains, dating from the 1st century, have been found near Olbia, with only one example ever found anywhere else.
Europe and the Middle East's Jewellery
Mesopotamia
By approximately 4,000 years ago, jewellery-making had become a significant craft in the cities of Sumer and Akkad. The most significant archaeological evidence comes from the Royal Cemetery of Ur, where hundreds of burials dating 2900–2300 BC were unearthed; tombs such as that of Puabi contained a multitude of artefacts in gold, silver, and semi-precious stones, such as lapis lazuli crowns embellished with gold figurines, close-fitting collar necklaces, and jewel-headed pins. In Assyria, men and women both wore extensive amounts of jewellery, including amulets, ankle bracelets, heavy multi-strand necklaces, and cylinder seals.
Jewellery in Mesopotamia tended to be manufactured from thin metal leaf and was set with large numbers of brightly-coloured stones (chiefly agate, lapis, carnelian, and jasper). Favoured shapes included leaves, spirals, cones, and bunches of grapes. Jewellers created works both for human use and for adorning statues and idols; they employed a wide variety of sophisticated metalworking techniques, such as cloisonne, engraving, fine granulation, and filigree.
Extensive and meticulously maintained records pertaining to the trade and manufacture of jewellery have also been unearthed throughout Mesopotamian archaeological sites. One record in the Mari royal archives, for example, gives the composition of various items of jewellery:
“ 1 necklace of flat speckled chalcedony beads including: 34 flat speckled chalcedony bead, [and] 35 gold fluted beads, in groups of five. 1 necklace of flat speckled chalcedony beads including: 39 flat speckled chalcedony beads, [with] 41 fluted beads in a group that make up the hanging device.
1 necklace with rounded lapis lazuli beads including: 28 rounded lapis lazuli beads, [and] 29 fluted beads for its clasp.
By approximately 4,000 years ago, jewellery-making had become a significant craft in the cities of Sumer and Akkad. The most significant archaeological evidence comes from the Royal Cemetery of Ur, where hundreds of burials dating 2900–2300 BC were unearthed; tombs such as that of Puabi contained a multitude of artefacts in gold, silver, and semi-precious stones, such as lapis lazuli crowns embellished with gold figurines, close-fitting collar necklaces, and jewel-headed pins. In Assyria, men and women both wore extensive amounts of jewellery, including amulets, ankle bracelets, heavy multi-strand necklaces, and cylinder seals.
Jewellery in Mesopotamia tended to be manufactured from thin metal leaf and was set with large numbers of brightly-coloured stones (chiefly agate, lapis, carnelian, and jasper). Favoured shapes included leaves, spirals, cones, and bunches of grapes. Jewellers created works both for human use and for adorning statues and idols; they employed a wide variety of sophisticated metalworking techniques, such as cloisonne, engraving, fine granulation, and filigree.
Extensive and meticulously maintained records pertaining to the trade and manufacture of jewellery have also been unearthed throughout Mesopotamian archaeological sites. One record in the Mari royal archives, for example, gives the composition of various items of jewellery:
“ 1 necklace of flat speckled chalcedony beads including: 34 flat speckled chalcedony bead, [and] 35 gold fluted beads, in groups of five. 1 necklace of flat speckled chalcedony beads including: 39 flat speckled chalcedony beads, [with] 41 fluted beads in a group that make up the hanging device.
1 necklace with rounded lapis lazuli beads including: 28 rounded lapis lazuli beads, [and] 29 fluted beads for its clasp.
Africa Jewellery
Egypt Jewellery
Amulet pendant, 254 BCE. Gold, lapis lazuli, turquoise, carnelian, 14 cm wide.The first signs of established jewellery making in Ancient Egypt was around 3,000-5,000 years ago.
The Egyptians preferred the luxury, rarity, and workability of gold over other metals. Predynastic Egypt had already acquired much gold; although the Egyptians acquired gold from the eastern deserts of Africa and from Nubia, in later years they captured it in the spoils of war or acquired it as tributes from other nations.
Jewellery in Egypt soon began to symbolize power and religious power in the community. Although it was worn by wealthy Egyptians in life, it was also worn by them in death, with jewellery commonly placed among grave goods.
In conjunction with gold jewellery, Egyptians used coloured glass in place of precious gems. Although the Egyptians had access to gemstones, they preferred the colours they could create in glass over the natural colours of stones. For nearly each gemstone, there was a glass formulation used by the Egyptians to mimic it.
The colour of the jewellery was very important, as different colours meant different things; the Book of the Dead dictated that the necklace of Isis around a mummy’s neck must be red to satisfy Isis’s need for blood, while green jewellery meant new growth for crops and fertility. Although lapis lazuli and silver had to be imported from beyond the country’s borders, most other materials for jewellery were found in or near Egypt, for example in the Red Sea, where the Egyptians mined Cleopatra's favourite gem, the emerald.
Egyptian jewellery was predominantly made in large workshops attached to temples or palaces.
Egyptian designs were most common in Phoenician jewellery. Also, ancient Turkish designs found in Persian jewellery suggest that trade between the Middle East and Europe was not uncommon. Women wore elaborate gold and silver pieces that were used in ceremonies.
Amulet pendant, 254 BCE. Gold, lapis lazuli, turquoise, carnelian, 14 cm wide.The first signs of established jewellery making in Ancient Egypt was around 3,000-5,000 years ago.
The Egyptians preferred the luxury, rarity, and workability of gold over other metals. Predynastic Egypt had already acquired much gold; although the Egyptians acquired gold from the eastern deserts of Africa and from Nubia, in later years they captured it in the spoils of war or acquired it as tributes from other nations.
Jewellery in Egypt soon began to symbolize power and religious power in the community. Although it was worn by wealthy Egyptians in life, it was also worn by them in death, with jewellery commonly placed among grave goods.
In conjunction with gold jewellery, Egyptians used coloured glass in place of precious gems. Although the Egyptians had access to gemstones, they preferred the colours they could create in glass over the natural colours of stones. For nearly each gemstone, there was a glass formulation used by the Egyptians to mimic it.
The colour of the jewellery was very important, as different colours meant different things; the Book of the Dead dictated that the necklace of Isis around a mummy’s neck must be red to satisfy Isis’s need for blood, while green jewellery meant new growth for crops and fertility. Although lapis lazuli and silver had to be imported from beyond the country’s borders, most other materials for jewellery were found in or near Egypt, for example in the Red Sea, where the Egyptians mined Cleopatra's favourite gem, the emerald.
Egyptian jewellery was predominantly made in large workshops attached to temples or palaces.
Egyptian designs were most common in Phoenician jewellery. Also, ancient Turkish designs found in Persian jewellery suggest that trade between the Middle East and Europe was not uncommon. Women wore elaborate gold and silver pieces that were used in ceremonies.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)