Telling One's Character by How One Wears Ring

According to an old believe and psychological approach analyzing personality of ring wearer. It has been found that ring wearing habit on different fingers could tell us accurately about the personality and character of the wearer, provide the ring is worn on any right hand finger.

Characteristic of the Fingers

Index Finger The person who wears ring on this finger always does irregular things. But there is a charm inside you that attracts people around you. You have your own kind of style, are self-confident and dress your own way…You are fond of exotic, unique kind of luxury. You like hard-to-find, weird jewelry. With your wit and elegance, you are an attractive high society woman. You have a good taste but keep in mind that your love of extraordinary things may prove to be your weakness.

Middle Finger If you wear ring on this finger you are a pleasant person, with high imagination and lots of creative ideas. People may find you quiet and serious or lively or sympathetic. You are gentle and shy, and more often than not you will lose control when interacting with a man. This is due to your lack of self-confidence.

Ring Finger If you wear ring on this finger you are an inconsiderate person. If a man approaches you who disguises himself, you will hate him eternally. You will, however, love to see bravery in a man that is trying to get to know you. There will be only one person who knows exactly that you are actually a fragile person, despite the fact that you are perceived by others to be strong. You are a great conversation partner and love to discuss or being obstinate. When you feel like having no friend and lonely, disappointed or brokenhearted, you may be able to show people that you are fine and that nothing has happened to you even thought you are deeply wounded inside. But in no time you will gain control and become the same person.

Little Finger If you wear ring on this finger, you are believed to be a person who finds herself in a dream rather than in a real world. You are a lovely person but a little bit depressed. You always keep your feeling save. People will hardly know what you are thinking of, especially the love affairs (in other words, you refuse to talk). In general, you are affected by what is going on around you. For example, you may cry upon learning that one of your friends is brokenhearted or may jump up and down with gladness when she finds a handsome man. You are calm and satisfied with you own lover. You are not too picky. This makes people around you very comfortable. A man who gets close to you will find himself relaxed and with fun. You are truly feminine… Your outstanding character is ability to make a guy happy when he is with you. You are serious about love. You are consistent and never forget important day. In fact, you are very romantic.

The World's Most Famous Royal Diamond-Hope

Hope
The history of the stone that was eventually named the Hope diamond began when the French merchant traveler, Jean Baptist Tavernier, purchased a 112.5 carat diamond. This diamond, which was most likely from the Kollur mine in Golconda, India, was somewhat triangular in shape and crudely cut. Its color was described by Tavernier as a "beautiful violet."

Tavernier sold the diamond to King Louis XIV of France in 1668. In 1673 the stone was recut by Sieur Pitau, the court jeweler, resulting in a 67.50 carat stone. In the royal inventorie, its color was described as an intense steely-blue. It was set in gold and suspended on a neck ribbon that the king wore on ceremonial occasions.

In 1791, after an attempt by Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette to flee France, the jewels of the French Royal Treasury were turned over to the government. The diamond was stolen during the French Revolution in September of 1792. In 1812 a deep blue diamond described by John Francillion was documented as being in the possession of London diamond merchant, Daniel Eliason who sold the diamond to the well-known Henry Philip Hope, the man from whom the diamond takes its name.

In 1912 Catier sold the Hope diamond to Mrs. Evalyn Walsh McLean, of Washington D.C. Sometime later it became the pendant on a diamond necklace as we know it today. Mrs. McLean's family then suffered a series of catastrophes : her only child was accidentially killed, the family broke up, Mrs. McLean lost her money, and then committed suicide in 1947.

Harry Winston Inc. of New York City purchased Mrs. McLean's entire jewelry collection, including the Hope diamond, from her estate in 1949. On November 10, 1958, Harry Winston donated the Hope diamond to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, and almost immediately the great blue stone became its premier attraction.

The Centenary

The 100-year anniversary of De Beers Consolidated Mines coincided with the fortuitous discovery of an extraordinary diamond rough. At its centennial banquet, the De Beers chairman announced the recovery of " a diamond of 599 carats which is perfect in color- indeed, it is one of the largest top color diamonds ever found. Naturally, it will be called the 'Centenary Diamond.' "

The Centenary diamond was found at South Africa's Premier Mine on July 17,1986. It took Gabi Tolkowsky three years to transform the stone into the largest modern-cut flawless diamond. The Centenary has 75 facets on top, 89 on the bottom and 83 on the girdle, for a total of 247. The amazing result was achieved using a combination of some of the oldest cutting methods and the most sophisticated technology.

The 'Centenary' diamond weights 273.85 carats, and is set into the British Crown Jewels. The 'Centenary' diamond was presented at the Tower of London in 1991, where it is on permanent display.

The World's Most Famous Royal Diamond-The Orloff

The Orloff
Some might say the most outstanding of the treasures held within the Treasures of the USSR Diamond Fund of the Kremlin is a large diamond known as the Orloff (sometimes spelt Orlov.) A few sources believed that the Orloff is but a part of the larger Great Mogul and therefore the same stone which vanished after the pillaging of Delhi in 1739.

The particulars of the Orloff's story once served as the eye of a Hindu devotional statue. The man held responsible for its removal was a French deserter. Persian merchant who then owned the Orloff, found an eager buyer in Count Gregori Gregorievich Orloff, a Russian nobleman and army officer who caught the fancy of the Grand Duchess, destined to become Catherine the Great. The Count paid a purported huge amount of Dutch florins. Count Orloff sought to rekindle his forlorn romance with Catherine the Great of Russia by offering her the diamond. While he failed to regain her affections, Catherine had never wore the diamond and named the diamond after the Count, and had her jeweler design the Imperial Scepter incorporating the Orloff.

The World's Most Famous Royal Diamond-The Regent

Originally known as the Pitt Diamond, this 410-carat stone was found in India. In 1710, it is said to have been discovered in the Parteal Mines on the Kistna River. In 1702, Governor Thomas Pitt of Madras sent the diamond to England and had it fashioned into a 140.50 carat cushion-shaped brilliant cut.

In 1717, Thomas Pitt sold the gem to Philip II, Duke of Orleans, then Regent of France , since that time, it has been known as the Regent Diamond. It was adorned the Royal Family in many different kinds of personal ornaments such as it was set in the crown of Crown of Louis XV in 1723. Then, it was robbed in 1792, during the Revolution and in 1797 the great gem was pledged for money that helped Napoleon in his ride to power. Many of the French Crown Jewels were sold at auction in 1887, but the Regent was reserved from the sale and exhibited at the Louvre among the national treasures.

The World's Most Famous Royal Diamond-Koh-I-Noor

According to some sources, the Koh-i-noor diamond was found in the Godavari River in central India 4,000 years ago. The authentic history of this jewel begins in the 14 c. when it was reported to be in the possession of the rajas of Malwa. It later fell into the hands of Baber, who founded the Mogul dynasty in 1526. During the next two centuries the diamond was one of the most prized items in the treasure of the Mogul emperors. Tradition associated with it states that its owner will rule the world, but that to possess it is dangerous for any but a woman.

In 1939, Nadir Shah of Persia invaded India and all of the treasures of the Moguls fell into his hands except the great diamond. Nadir is believed to have exclaimed "Koh-i-noor" mountain of light. Later, Ranjit Singh, the Lion of the Punjab, took the stone and wore it as a decoration.

It was later placed in the Lahore treasury. After the Sikh wars, it was taken by the East India Company as part of the indemnity levied in 1849, and was subsequently presented to Queen Victoria.It was decided to recut it from its original Indian form, and a member of the Amsterdam firm of Costar was called to London to cut the stone and got the oval cut in 108.93 carats. Queen Victoria continued to wear it as a brooch. The actual Koh-i-Noor can now be seen in the Maltese Cross, in a crown made for the Queen Mother in 1937, on display at the Tower of London.

The World's Most Famous Royal Diamond-Cullinan

Cullinan
The Star of Africa, a pear shaped diamond weighing 530.20 carats, aka the Cullinan I. It's called the Cullinan I because it's the largest of the 9 large stones cut from the Cullinan Diamond. The historic Cullinan diamond, found in Premier Mine, South Africa in 1905, weighed an astounding 3,106.75 carats. The Cullinan was cut by Joseph Asscher & Company of Amsterdam, who examined the enormous crystal for around six months before determining how to divide it. The Star of Africa, weight 530.20 carats, holds the place of 2nd largest cut diamond in the world and King Edward placed it in the Sovereign's Royal Scepter. The Cullinan II is a 317.40 carat cushion cut stone mounted in the band of the Imperial State Crown. The Cullinan III is a pear-shaped diamond weighing 94.40 carats, and is the finial of Queen Mary's Crown and can be worn with the IV as a pendant -brooch. The Cullinan IV, a 63.60- carat cushion shape. All are a part of the Crown Jewels, and they are now on display in the tower of London.

Golden Jubilee

The Golden Jubilee is the largest faceted diamond in the world, weighing 545.67 carats in which a yellow-brown cushion shape diamond is now the Crown Jewels of Thailand, The original stone weighted 755.50 carats and then was designed by master cutter Gabi Tolkowsky (He also designed the 278.85 -carat Centenary Diamond, which is the largest D-Flawless diamond in the world.) who took three years to complete its transformation into the world's largest fancy diamond.

The result was that the cutter could preserve the greatest possible amount of the weight of the rough diamond in which he was losing diamond less then 28 percent. Tolkowsky described the Golden Jubilee's cut as a "fire rose cushion cut." The color has been graded as "fancy yellow-brown" by GIA Lab.

The Golden Jubilee is known to have been purchased from De Beers by a Thai syndicate in 1995. The diamond was then given to King Rama IX of Thailand in 1997 for his Golden Jubilee - the 50th anniversary of his coronation. King Rama IX had the Golden Jubilee mounted in his royal scepter. Prior to this event, the stone was simply known as the Unnamed Brown in which was found at the Premier mine, South Africa in 1986.

FRACTURE-FILLED ORANGEY PINK SAPPHIRE WITH LEAD GLASS

In March 2005, GIT-GTL received the orangy pink sapphires for certified; one of which showing the evidences of having undergone the fracture-filled process with lead glass. Our standard gem testing confirmed this stone was natural orangey pink sapphire. The pictures below show a stone full of inclusions and fractures/fissures with blue/yellow flashes (Figure 1) similar to the new lead-glass fracture-filled ruby.

The X-radiograph images also revealed high-density area (brighter colour in the negatives) along fractures and fissures (Figure 2). The high density areas with brighter or whiter features are normally the results of having heavier elements in composition compared to silica or alumina glasses. The chemical analysis by EDXRF spectrometry technique has also revealed that the chemical compositions of the filling substance showing the presence of lead (Pb) beside other usual trace elements in corundum (Figure 3).

New Blue Treated Sapphire

Preamble
The treatment technique of ruby and sapphire in Thailand has been continuously developed from the simple methods in the early days to the more complicated techniques in recent years. In September 2007, five faceted sapphire samples and few rough stones of similar material were submitted to the GIT Gem Testing Laboratory (GIT-GTL) from a gem treater who informed us that the sapphires were heat-treated by a new method.

General Observation
From the external appearance, those faceted sapphires were dark blue and semi-translucent (Fig. 1). Microscopic observation revealed many of rounded tiny blue inclusions oriented along large numbers of healed fracture. These inclusions, which were the main cause of color in the gems, seem to be the residue material remaining after the fractures were healed during high temperature heat treatment. The internal diffusion feature was not found in these new materials (Fig. 2). In general, the gems had the refractive index of 1.760-1.768 (0.008), the specific gravity of 3.94, exhibited red emission under the Long Wavelength Ultraviolet (LW/UV) light and weaker under the Short Wavelength Ultraviolet (SW/UV) light. Besides, red emission was found when shining with the high density light (Fig. 3).

The Analyses Using Advanced Instruments
From the chemical analysis by EDXRF technique, it was found that there were cobalt (Co) and lead (Pb) presented as impurities among the other elements (Al, Fe, Ti, Ga) commonly found in sapphire (Fig. 4). The UV-VIS absorption spectrum showed the main absorption peaks at approximately 630 and 530 nm (Fig. 5). This absorption pattern was totally different from the absorption due to Fe-Ti intervalent charge transfer usually occurred in blue sapphire. In fact, the absorption characteristic mentioned above was similar to the absorption of cobalt which was found in glass or synthetic blue spinel. From the infrared absorption analysis, it was found that the absorption spectrum was clearly different from other corundum (Fig. 6).

Conclusion
In conclusion, it was likely that the raw material used for this technique was the semi-translucent pale colored sapphires consisting of many cracks .The treatment process was a high temperature heating technique involving cobalt and lead containing flux. The color of gem was mainly due to the inclusions of blue cobalt-bearing solid residues left along healed fractures after the high temperature treatment.

Acknowledgements
In this study, the GIT would like to express our grateful thank to Mr. Tanusorn Lethaisong and Ms. Sasitorn Boongkawong who kindly provided us the samples and their willingness to let us disclose the new treatment technique in order to sustain the 'consumers' trust and confidence in his new product.

Update on an Uncommon Lead-Glass Treated Ruby

In August 2007, the Gem Testing Laboratory of Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (GIT-GTL) received one unusual lead-glass treated ruby we ever found. This 9.07 ct ruby (Figure 1) shows a mosaic-like surface feature apparently comprising ruby fragments cemented by lead-glass matrix (see Figure 2, under dark field illumination). It is better seen under reflected light (Figure 3) in which the ruby appears light grey while the lead-glass is dark grey as a result of differences in lustres and hardnesses. Obviously the surface texture of the stone displays somewhat unmatched pieces and, in part, optically uneven orientation of many fragments. These textural features seem to suggest that this ruby is rather a composite stone than a single crystal fracture-filled with the lead glass as commonly found in many glass-filled rubies.

The basic gemological properties of this stone are similar to those of common ruby except its specific gravity (SG) which is about 4.20. This value is somewhat higher than the normal range of corundum (~ 4.00), and is certainly due to the influence of very high amount of lead-glass in the stone. The qualitatively chemical analysis using EDXRF also reveals a pronounced lead (Pb) content (Figure 4). The FTIR Spectrum of this stone shows two exceptionally strong broad absorption bands in the range between 2,200 – 3,800 cm-1. Such the absorption bands, nonetheless, are comparable to those of the artificial glasses detected in the glass-filled ruby (Figure 5).

Based on the features and evidences presented above, the GIT-GTL, as a member of the Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee (LMHC), discloses such a material with the following comment: "A composite made up of ruby and (lead) glass". So for the GITGTL has not received any stone with such as similar feature again.This may due to the uncommon nature of this type of stone in the market or they might have been sold at a reasonably low price without certification.

Rubies with Unusual Characteristics

Since November 2007, the Gem Testing Laboratory of Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (GIT-GTL) has received a number of ruby samples said to be originated from Madagascar. Microscopic examination reveals some unusual internal features, such as wispy veil-like fingerprints filled with quite dense fluid, numerous tiny clusters of colourless inclusions and isolated colourless crystal inclusions which could not yet be identified by Raman spectroscopic technique (Figs.1-2).

All of those stones show strong red luminescence in LWUV. The chemical analyses by EDXRF indicate rather high chromium contents (0.43-1.54 wt% Cr2O3), moderate-to-high iron contents (0.04-0.49 wt% Fe2O3), very low-to-low titanium (0.007-0.014 wt% TiO2) and vanadium (0.000-0.016 wt% V2O5) contents, and moderate-to-high gallium contents (0.006-0.046 wt% Ga2O3) in those samples.

The absorption spectra in IR range show no OH-related peaks in those samples. In contrast the UV-Vis-NIR absorption spectra show not only the strong Cr absorption bands and lines as normally expected for a ruby sample but also an unusual broad absorption band centered at around 900 nm, which normally appear in basaltic-related sapphires. This extra absorption band may possibly related to Fe2+ /Fe3+ charge transfer in which its intensity seems to be directly related to the amount of Fe in the sample (Figs. 3-5).

This unusual absorption band has not been so far observed in natural rubies, not even in rubies containing equally high Fe contents from basaltic-type origin (e.g., about 0.442 wt% from Africa; see Fig. 6).

With such the suspicious internal features including undeterminable inclusions and the presence of absorption band at around 900 nm, these, to us, are quite ambiguous evidences and are uncommon characteristics being found in a natural ruby Because of the aforementioned reasons, the GIT-GTL needs to make further in depth investigations on those samples. We, therefore, regret to temporarily suspend issuing of the report on the authenticity of this type of ruby samples for the time being. We remain in touch with our clients soonest on the progress of our investigations.

We would also request stone dealers and/or individuals who may come across or have experiences with such ruby samples or rough of the same material to contact us or one of members of LMHC. So far the GIT-GTL still has not yet received any information related to our requests. We thank for your kind cooperation and responsibility.

Men's bracelet, 'Dragon Protection' of Thailand

Naga the dragon is a mythical being responsible for protecting Earth. His body is similar to a snake's, which Achara elegantly replicates with this sterling silver bracelet.

Garnet necklace

Garnet necklace, Sensuous and chic, this necklace features three luxurious tiers of garnets. In the center, three additional gemstone cascades form a pendant. Prageet crafts the choker from sterling silver in a perfect fusion of tradition and style.

A jewelry expert!

Intriguing facts, fictions, and terminology

Abalone
Abalone is a mollusk, and a source of mother of pearl. It is the beautiful iridescent inside of the mollusk's shell that is called mother of pearl.

Acrylic
A type of thermoplastic, often used in jewelry.

Adamantine
Meaning to have a diamond-like luster.

Alexandrite Effect
Reference to stones that appear to be different colors depending on the light they are viewed under.

Alloy
A homogeneous mixture or solid solution of two or more metals, the atoms of one replacing or occupying interstitial positions between the atoms of the other. Common jewelry allows include gold, sterling silver, brass, bronze, pewter, and alpaca (also spelled alpaca, not to be confused with alpaca wool). Brass, for example, is an alloy of zinc and copper.

Alpaca (aka alpacca)
Sometimes used in jewelry as a silver substitute, alpaca is an alloy of copper, nickel, and zinc.

Aluminum
A lightweight, silver-white metal, first discovered in the 18th century. At that time, aluminum was more expensive than gold!

Annealing
A method of subjecting glass or metal to heating and slow cooling in order to toughen and reduce brittleness.

Anodized
An electrochemical, acid-bath/electrical current treatment for metal that changes the molecules of the surface layer (controlled oxidization) into a thin, protective, lustrous, sometimes colorful film.

Apple Juice
A translucent plastic the color of apple juice, used in jewelry.

Aqua Regia
A mixture of hydrochloric and nitric acids, used to test gold and platinum.

Arcade Setting (aka Coronet or Chaton Setting)
A setting of many metal claws holding the stone in place.

Arkansas Diamond
Actually rock crystal, not a real diamond.

Arkansas Stone
An abrasive used to smooth metals, used in jewelry-making.

Art Deco (1925-1935)
Deriving its name from the 1925 Paris Exposition of Decorative Arts and Modern Manufactures, Art Deco was actually a largely North American style that influenced everything from jewelry to architecture. With an emphasis on symmetry and geometry, the Art Deco movement strove to soften the mass produced look with a somewhat more sensitive, artful purpose. In jewelry, platinum, and diamonds played a central role, often mixed with inexpensive crystal and even coral. From Art Deco, the introduction of new emerald, pear, and marquises cuts resulted, harmonious with the symmetrical themes of the Art Deco style.

Art Nouveau (1890-1912)
In jewelry, the Art Nouveau movement broke away from the solemn conventions of Victorian and Edwardian styling, a rebellion that unleashed a creative, inspired outpouring of phenomenally beautiful works of art, incorporating much of the natural world - elegant flowers, dragonflies, ferns, snakes, and lithe, sensual animal and human forms. Also with the advent of Art Nouveau came a mastery of new gold casting and carving techniques, and the widespread use of enameling.

Arts and Crafts
A late 1800s artistic movement, with items intentionally made to appear handmade, and with simple settings.

Assay
An assay is a test of the purity of an alloy.

Asterism
A luminescent, star-like effect in some gemstones, reflecting light.

Aurora Borealis or AB
Often used in reference to glass rhinestones or beads coated with a thin layer of metals to achieve an iridescent sheen, named after the "Northern Lights." This process was jointly invented by the Swarovski and Christian Dior companies in 1955.

Awabi Pearl
Japanese name for abalone pearls.

Bakelite Jewelry
Thermoset plastic first produced in the 1920s, named after its creator, Leo Hendrick Baekeland. A dense, synthetic resin, Bakelite is difficult to melt and easily colored. It quickly became a popular material for jewelry, even fostering its own counterfeits. Bakelite was initially designed to imitate amber.

Bangle
A stiff bracelet, solid or sometimes featuring a hinge closure.

Bar and Ring Clasp
A bar fastener, where the bar is inserted into a ring, to connect two ends of a bracelet or necklace.

Baroda Gem
A trade name for a colorless glass stone backed with foil.

Baroque
Refers to irregularly shaped, natural or artificial pearls and stones.

Bar Pin (or Bar Brooch)
A long pin worn horizontally.

Barrel Clasp
Jewelry closure where one end of the closure screws into the other, barrel-like end.

Base Metal
Non-precious metals, including copper, lead, tin, and zinc.

Basse-Taille
Translucent enameling of low relief metals to produce a sculpted surface.

Baton
A long, thin, rectangular stone cut, larger than a baguette.

Bayadere
A pearl necklace of strands that have been twisted together.

Bell Cap
Glued onto a hole-less bead or stone to make threading possible.

Belle Epoque
The Edwardian period (1901 - 1910)

Bezel (aka Crown)
The top of a cut stone, protruding above the edge of the setting. A bezel setting, on the other hand, is a band of metal tightened around the outside of the stone to hold it in place.

Bib Necklace (aka Collarette)
A short necklace featuring flowing ornaments.

Big Four
Diamond, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds are known as "The Big Four", the most desirable gemstones in the world today, in that order.

Biwa Pearl
Irregularly shaped freshwater pearls from Lake Biwa, Japan, smoother and more lustrous than most freshwater pearls.

Bleaching
Removing or subduing a gemstone's color with a bleaching agent.

Bling Bling
Slang term coined by rapper Cash Money Millionaires, describing ostentatious, usually diamond jewelry.

Blister Pearl (aka Bouton Pearl)
A pearl that attaches itself to a mollusk's shell, so that it must be cut from the shell during removal, resulting in a flattened backside.

Bodkin
A renaissance era hairpin, laden with many jewels.

Bog-Oak
In the Victorian Era, bog-oak was carved into inexpensive jewelry and other decorative objects. It is old oak, blackened in Irish and Scottish peat bogs.

Bohemian Diamond
Rock crystal (not an actual diamond)

Bolt Ring (aka Spring Ring)
Invented in the early 1900s, the bolt ring is a circular metal fastening with a spring opening, designed to attach two other links in a bracelet or necklace.

Bonding
A coating of plastic or another colorless bonding agent onto a porous gemstone to make it harder and richer in color.

Botanical Gems
Minerals formed of plant material, including amber, coconut pearl, and pearl opal (found in damaged bamboo shoots).

Brazilian Chain (aka Snake Chain)
Link chain made of small cup-like links.

Brazing
Soldering with high temperature alloys to join high temperature metals.

Brilliant Cut
Stones cut with 56 facets, 32 above the girdle, 24 below, maximizing the amount of reflected light. The brilliant cut is the most popular diamond cut today, dating from the 1600s.

Bridge Jewelry
Bridging the gap between precious and costume jewelry, sterling silver is an example of bridge jewelry.

Briolette (aka Drop Cut)
A pear-shaped cut with triangular facets on the top surface.

Brooch (aka Pin)
An ornament of any material that can be pinned to a garment.

Brushed Finish
Brushed metal, with reduced reflectivity.

Bruting
The shaping of the girdle of a diamond, the first step in the cutting process, determining the basic shape of the finished gem.

Bubbles
Bubbles of gas caught in glass or resins, and sometimes in minerals.

Bugle Bead
A long, thin, tube-shaped glass bead.

Butterfly Wing Jewelry
Made from real butterfly wings, often with a picture painted on the wings, enclosed in plastic or glass.

Cabochon
A cut with a rounded, domed surface, with no facets.

Calibre-Cut
Small step-cut stones for inclusion in larger designs.

Cameo
A relief carving on a shell or stone.

Camphor Glass
Cloudy white glass, popular mid-nineteenth century.

Carat (ct.)
A unit of measurement introduced in 1907, .2 grams.

Casting
Melting and shaping metal through the use of molds. There are many methods of casting, including the lost wax process, centrifugal, and sand methods.

Cathedral Setting
A simple setting, a band that arches upward.

Choker
A short necklace designed to rest close to the throat, usually 13-15" in length.

Clip-On
A simple spring clip mechanism to lock earrings in place, not requiring piercings.

Celluloid
A plant-derived plastic, invented in 1869 by John Wesley Hyatt.

Celtic Jewelry
Designed by the Celts in Brittany, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales, using bronze, silver, and gold.

CFW
Cultured, freshwater pearls.

Champleve
This "sunken enamel" style is achieved by first cutting designs into the surface of metal, then filling the grooves with enamel, firing it to a polished sheen. Similar, but not as delicate, as cloisonné.

Channel Set
Jewels resting in a metal channel, held by a slight rim.

Charm
Small, symbolic ornaments, usually worn on bracelets or necklaces.

Chasing
Decorating metal by use of hammer strikes.

Chaton
A stone backed with reflective foil.

Chatoyancy
The cat's eye effect found in some polished stones, including cat's eye, tiger's eye, and various other stones. The cabochon cut best shows off this trait.

Claddagh Ring
An Irish ring, featuring two small hands clasped together.

Clarity
The lack of internal flaws in a gemstone. In diamonds, clarity ranges from FL (flawless), to 13 (with many imperfections visible to the naked eye).

Claw
A metal prong positioned to hold a gemstone securely in its setting.

Cleavage
The way a mineral natural breaks.

Cloisonne
A certain application of enamel to metal. First, a design is cut into the metal; then, the cuts are filled with enamel and fired to a polish.

Closed Setting
A setting that completely encases the back of a stone.

Cloud
Usually a cluster of tiny inclusions in a stone, making it appear milky, greatly reducing the stone's value.

Cluster Setting
A gemstone surrounded by small stones or pearls.

Collet Setting
A thin, round band of metal encircling a stone, with one edge crimped over the top of the stone, and the other edge of the band soldered to the metal of the setting.

Composite Suite
Jewelry that can be assembled into one piece or disassembled into two or more pieces, so that they can be worn as one item or separately.

Conch
A marine mollusk with a pearly, typically white or pink shell that is cut into beads for jewelry.

Crimp Bead
A soft metal bead that, when crimped, secures the loose ends of threading material.

Crown
The crown is the top part of a cut gem.

Crystal (glass)
Glass made of a minimum of 10 percent lead oxide, producing very clear glass, a process discovered in 1676 by Englishman George Ravenscroft.

Cubic Zirconium (aka Cubic Zirconia)
Resembling diamond, cubic zirconium is an inexpensive, manufactured gemstone, created in 1977.

Cuff Bracelet
A rigid, wide bracelet.

Cultured Pearl
Pearls produced by mollusks that have been purposefully injected with bits of shell. They shell serves as irritant, compelling the mollusk to begin coating the irritant with layer after layer of self-produced nacre, in an instinctive attempt to smooth and sooth the lodged irritation. This method of "farming" pearls was invented by Kokichi Mikimoto in 1893.

Cushion Cut
Stones cut into a square cushion-like shape, rounded on the edges, with facets typically similar to a brilliant cut.

Beads & other materials

Throughout the ages, jewelry has been designed in a wide variety of beautiful and alluring materials. Texture, as well as color and style, has typically played an important role.

Natural fibers
Natural fibers and cloth have been used in jewelry throughout history. Stones and beads of all sorts, leather, shell, feather, wood, even seeds and berries.

Lacquered jewelry
Dating back to ancient China, exquisite lacquer jewelry can now be found in many regions of the world, especially Asia, India, and Europe.

Dried flower jewelry
Fresh and dried flowers may have been among the first ornaments to grace the human body. Today, exquisite dried flower jewelry is available, some of the finest designs handmade in Thailand.

Beads
Beads are believed to be the most ancient of personal adornments. A recent (2004) archeological discovery of beads - 41 tiny, perforated mollusk shells found in a cave in South Africa - may prove that humans began adorning themselves as far back as 75,000 years ago (30,000 years earlier than previously believed).In many regions of the world, beads have been used as monetary instruments. Christopher Columbus brought beads to the New World as gifts, and to facilitate trade. In some cultures, certain beads are believed to carry magic, protective powers.In parts of Asia, especially Indonesia, nearly colorless bamboo, stone, wood, and horn beads are favored, often decorated with bright colors. Many native North and South Americans use extensive beadwork in belts, bracelets, and clothes.Since the 10th Century, glass beads have been popular in areas of Russia, lavishly embroidered onto everything from furniture to purses.Today, bead enthusiasts enjoy a vast array of bead materials to choose from. Click on the following links to view samples of currently popular bead styles:

African beads
Bamboo beads
Ceramic beads
Cloisonne beads
Crystal beads
Glass beads
Gemstone beads
Precious metal beads
Resin beads
Rough gem beads
Seed beads
Stone beads
Turquoise beads
Wood beads

Precious metals

Eight metals are deemed precious: Silver, gold, and six platinum metals, including platinum, palladium, rhodium, ruthenium, iridium, and osmium.

Silver
Silver is too soft in its pure state for use in jewelry, and must be alloyed with other metals (typically copper). Silver has the highest thermal and electrical conductivity of all the metals.

800 silver
Silver containing 80 percent silver and 10 percent copper or other metal.

950 silver
95.0 silver contains 95 percent silver and 5 percent copper or other metal.

925 Sterling silver
Sterling silver contains 92.5 percent silver and 7.6 percent copper or other metal (a universally accepted standard, originally decreed in 1300 by England's King Edward the First).

Gold
Pure gold, like silver, is too soft for most jewelry. Therefore, it is usually blended with silver or copper to achieve a more resilient alloy. Karat (abbreviated "k" or "kt") refers to the percentage of pure gold the alloy contains (as opposed to carat weight, used for measuring precious gems, with one "c" or "cr" equaling 200 milligrams). The higher the percentage of gold contained in an item of jewelry, the higher the karat weight, with 100 percent pure gold measuring 24k, and 50 percent gold alloy measuring 12k."Solid gold" refers to an alloy that contains at least 10k of gold, and is not hollow. "Gold plated" items have been coated with gold of at least 10k. "Gold filled" actually also refers to items with a coating of 10k or greater gold, but in gold filled, the gold is mechanically bonded to the base metal, in a more durable fashion than simple gold plate.

White gold
White gold is an alloy of gold and nickel, sometimes also containing palladium or zinc. These metals lend the gold a pale, platinum-like color (whereas copper and silver enhance gold's natural golden hue).

Blue gold
The alloy of gold and metals containing iron results in gold with a bluish tinge.

Platinum
Rarer and pricier than gold, platinum is the finest of the precious metals. It is a silver-white metal found worldwide, typically strengthened with other metals, such as iridium, osmium, or nickel, for use in jewelry. Platinum is not measured in karats, but rather is stamped with a standardized platinum quality mark by its manufacturer, indicating the percentage of platinum contained (Pt1000 denotes pure platinum).

Healing and spiritual beliefs: Gems, crystals, and magnetic jewelry

Magnetic jewelry
Magnetic jewelry has experienced a major resurgence in popularity, especially among athletes and alternative health practitioners. Magnetic energy is believed to induce a calming effect, and to increase blood and oxygen flow.

Some adherents believe bio-magnetic energy can cure a wide variety of ailments, from chronic pain to cancer. Magnet therapy has been practiced since ancient times. The Greeks and Egyptians studied the benefits of permanent magnets as long as 4,000 years ago, and a 2000 BC Chinese text details the beneficial results of magnets on acupuncture points.Gems & crystals: healing and spiritual beliefsAround the world, throughout history, people from nearly all cultures have believed that some gemstones and crystals held spiritual and healing powers.

The study of such spiritual and healing powers remains strong in countries such as India, where proponents believe that certain gems and crystals, brought in contact with the seven chakra points of the body, can help release clogged and unhealthy energy, freeing the body of imbalances both mental and physical. These beliefs have also gained a considerable following among many New Age adherents, who have brought these East Indian traditions to spiritual and alternative healing centers around the world.Adherents believe that crystals heal through vibrational powers.

There are examples within the realm of science that might lend credence to these beliefs. For example, piezoelectric quartz crystals are commonly used as oscillators in electronic devices (including quartz clocks, watches, and radios).

Crystal healing practicioners believe that the inherent vibrational "tuning" of various crystals resonates with our bodies in various ways that can promote or speed healing, just as deep therapeutic massage, accupressure, and accupuncture are believed to have similar beneficial effects.Crystal healing practicioners suggest that specfic gems be placed on certain of the seven chakra points of the body during massage treatments and during meditation. It is often recommended that the specified gems be worn or carried between treatments, as well.

1. Gems & crystals believed to aid the Root Chakra (base of spine):
Agate, ametrine, black obsidian, black tourmaline, blood stone, carnelian, hematite, fire agate, garnet, ruby, nephrite, smoky quartz, onyx.Physical, spiritual association: Adrenal glands, kidneys, spinal. column, back, hips, legs, feet; stability security, grounding, courage.

2. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Svadhisthana Chakra (sacral or spleen):
Amber, carnelian, citrine, golden topaz, golden beryl, zircon.Physical, spiritual association: Genital area, reproductive organs, bladder, bowel and lower intestine; creativity, harmony, emotional balance, passion, sexuality.

3. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Manipura Chakra (solar plexus):
Amber, citrine, emerald, golden topaz, tiger-eye, malachite, peridotPhysical, spiritual association: Stomach, pancreas, liver; courage, personal power, strength, self worth, transformation.

4. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Anahata Chakra (chest):
Rose quartz, pink tourmaline, rubellite, rhodochrosite, emerald, green tourmaline, malachite, green aventurine, ruby, green jade, nephrite, chrysoprase, rhodonite.Physical, spiritual association: Heart, lungs, thymus gland; love, forgiveness, compassion.

5. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Vishuddha Chakra (throat):
Aquamarine, blue topaz, blue tourmaline, blue turquoise, lapis lazuli, iolite, zircon.Physical, spiritual association: Mouth, throat, thyroid; will power, creativity, communication, truthfulness.

6. Gems & crystals belived to aid the Ajna Chakra (third eye):
Amethyst, blue tourmaline, sapphire, lavender quartz, sodalite, iolite.Physical, spiritual association: Eyes, brain, pituitary, pineal gland, nervous system; balance, clarity, intuition, coordination.

7. Gems & crystals believed to aid the Sahasrara Chakra (crown):
Clear quartz, amethyst, diamond, moonstone, lavender quartz, white topaz.Physical, spiritual association: brain stem, pineal gland, top of spinal cord; spirutuality, life force.

The caring and cleaning of jewelry

The best recommendation is to treat your jewelry with great care and reverence. Keep individual items separated to avoid scratches. Even harder-than-nails diamonds can be scratched by other diamonds! Be especially careful with pearls; they are soft and damage easily.

Link and chain bracelets are best stored flat (unhooked), rolled up in soft cloth.Apply perfume, makeup, and hairspray before putting on jewelry, and be sure to remove jewelry before doing housework that could damage it! Likewise, remove all jewelry before having your hair styled or colored! Be especially careful to avoid allowing your jewelry to be exposed to household chemicals, nail polish and remover, solvents and abrasives that can dull and damage.

Chlorine can damage gold, so avoid wearing gold in the pool. Cuff bracelets, especially those with settings, should be opened and closed as minimally as possible.Ultrasonic cleaners can damage some gems and pearls. Such jewelry is best washed in mild, soapy water, and dried with a soft, lint-free cloth.

We advise bringing your jewelry to an expert for all cleaning and repairs. A great tip for silver: As exposure to air tarnishes it, storing silver in airtight plastic bags will greatly reduce tarnishing. Keep in mind that some silver is purposefully oxidized (antiqued). Oxidized silver should only be cleaned with a polishing cloth, without silver cleaning solution. Unlike silver, pearls should not be kept in an airtight container; they can dry out. Gently wipe pearls with a hot, damp towel to remove finger and body oils, then carefully wrap them in soft cloth for storage.

Jewelry wearing and pairing tips

Tips for her
Today, we have tremendous choice in what we may wear and how we wear it. It is tempting to celebrate this freedom with great abandon, and we urge to you do so! If you do desire some simple pointers, however, we're here to help guide you!

Pairing jewelry with jewelry
Purchasing jewelry in sets makes pairing easiest: necklaces, earrings, and sometimes bracelets and rings designed to be worn together takes the effort out of deciding what goes best with what! Fret not, however, if you wish to pair individual treasures. Simply keep in mind this most basic rule: like styles, patterns, materials, and colors go best together. Additionally, when any one aspect of the jewelry ensemble is extravagant, the other elements are best left understated. A dramatic necklace looks best with no earrings, or with small stud earrings (or matching earrings). Likewise, bold or exceptionally long earrings look best without a necklace, or paired with a delicate necklace made of similar essential elements.

Paring jewelry with clothes
"The more extravagant the jewelry, the more uncluttered the clothes." This is a tried and true rule of thumb! To take it a step further (remember, these are just general guidelines): Fancy necklaces go best with simple necklines. Bold, heavy jewelry goes well with suits and pants. Delicate and feminine jewelry with breezy or elegant dresses. It naturally follows that jewelry should, and typically does, to some degree reflect the wearer's personality: bold jewelry on bold women, dainty jewelry on dainty women. When choosing jewelry, find colors that blend harmoniously with the colors of your clothes.

Pairing jewelry with body types
Chokers attract the viewer's eye to the neck; longer necklaces to the bust; sparkling or dangling earrings will attract attention to the face; and of course bracelets and rings to the arms and hands. Draw attention to your favorite features! Pay particular attention when purchasing necklaces and earrings. Rather than choosing shapes that repeat the shape of your face, select shapes that contradict it (but not to extremes). If your face is round, try longer necklaces, and experiment with medium-length dangle earrings. Angular faces are best flattered with round jewelry - hoops and chokers.

Tips for him
Men's watches, bracelets, necklaces, and the occasional earring are ideally simple and understated, and best worn where they peek out ever so subtly and enticingly from beneath clothing. A necklace looks wonderful when it conforms to the neckline of the chosen shirt. If the necklace is longer, it should fall modestly underneath the shirt, rather than drape visibly over it.

Selecting jewelry gifts: For women & men

A gift for yourself
Today, jewelry is available in a tremendous array of styles, materials, and price ranges, and absolutely anything goes - to an extent unparalleled in history. The wearer may unabashedly determine his or her favorite look: Traditional tribal jewelry, historic and period replica jewelry; gemstone, glass, beads, amber, natural or cultured pearls, dried flower jewelry; gold, silver, bronze, copper, tin, leather; fine, fashion, or costume jewelry; simple or wildly ornate, delicate or bold. Discover the look that most resonates with you (and - most importantly - enjoy!).


A gift for her
Jewelry is considered a precious, personal, important gift. Gifted by a loved one, it will be treasured and appreciated no matter the style, material, or cost. To insure that your gift receives plentiful use, the best rule of thumb is to give something you would expect to see her wear. Does she often wear chokers? Cuff bracelets? Bangles? Drop earrings? Choose a style you've seen on her before, and you'll be in safe territory! If she wears silver, choose silver. If she tends toward gold, try gold. If you haven't seen her wear much jewelry, a simple, elegant necklace is your best bet, perhaps featuring her birthstone - or a beautiful heart! It is always ideal to give what the recipient is most likely to desire, even if that is not necessarily what you are most eager to see the recipient wear! Do remember that rings carry with them tremendous implied significance, so be sure you're intending to seriously tantalize her with future possibilities before you gift her with even a pinky ring!


A gift for him
The trend regarding male jewelry remains: Manly and minimal. A classic watch has long been considered the essential item of jewelry for a man. Simple bracelets can also be quite manly and alluring. Cuff links, tie clips and pins, money clips, rings, necklaces, and perhaps an unadorned earring may also be considered for men, if they are already known to wear such jewelry.When considering bracelets, simple silver links and natural fiber bracelets look handsome and masculine. Likewise, necklaces of basic natural materials are considered attractive today. Remember, the simpler the better when choosing a style for a man. Natural fiber necklaces, plain silver necklaces, bead, leather, shell, wood, or seed necklaces for an outdoorsman or surfer might be apropos - nothing lengthy, nor thin and dainty.


Anniversary Jewelry (contemporary standard)
- 10th Anniversary: Diamonds
- 11th Anniversary: Fashion jewelry
- 12th Anniversary: Pearls
- 14th Anniversary: Gold
- 15th Anniversary: Watches
- 20th Anniversary: Platinum
- 25th Anniversary: Silver
- 30th Anniversary: Diamond
- 35th Anniversary: Jade
- 40th Anniversary: Ruby
- 45th Anniversary: Sapphire
- 50th Anniversary: Gold
- 55th Anniversary: Emerald
- 60th Anniversary: Diamond

Birthstones
- January: garnet
- February: amethyst
- March: aquamarine (alternately bloodstone)
- April: diamond
- May: emerald
- June: pearl (alternately moonstone)
- July: ruby
- August: peridot (alternately carnelian)
- September: sapphire
- October: opal (alternately lapis lazuli)
- November: topaz (alternately citrine)
- December: turquoise, blue topaz (alternately tourmaline)

Zodiac Gems
- Aquarius the Water Bearer (January 20 - February 18): garnet
- Pisces the Fishes (January 20 - February 18): amethyst
- Aries the Ram (March 21 - April 19): bloodstone
- Taurus the Bull (April 20 - May 20): sapphire
- Gemini the Twins (May 21 - June 21): agate
- Cancer the Crab (June 22 - July 22): emerald
- Leo the Lion (July 23 - August 22): onyx
- Virgo the Virgin (August 23 - September 22): carnelian
- Libra the Balance (September 23 - October 23): peridot
- Scorpio the Scorpion (October 24 - November 21): aquamarine
- Sagittarius the Archer (November 22 - December 21): topaz
- Capricorn the Goat (December 22 - January 19): ruby

A brief history of jewelry

Men and women have adorned themselves with jewelry since long before the age of reason!Garlands of flowers, bracelets of woven grass, shells, and stone; such were the first decorations to beautify the human body.

We may have been wearing jewelry as far back as 75,000 years ago - 30,000 years earlier than previously believed - according to a recent report by National Geographic News.Over the millennia, jewelry styles and materials have evolved in step with the advances of civilization.

From the Stone Age to the Bronze Age, from the Iron Age to the Industrial Revolution (and seemingly back again!), jewelry styles have transformed, modernized, and then often returned to their most basic forms and essential elements.So, too, has the significance of jewelry evolved through the ages.

Fundamentally, jewelry has always remained an adornment, but an adornment that variously transformed into a symbol of love, religion, wealth, prestige, rank, class, and sometimes authority.

Historically, rings in particular have held significant import beyond mere physical enhancement. Clergy prized "heavenly" blue sapphire rings.

Signet rings have served as official seals. Others have considered rings as icons of physical and spiritual protection, bearers of magic strengths and powers.

Rings have served as modes of identification - religious, political, institutional, and educational, and they have even served as pass keys into secret societies.In the 1st Century A.D., rings of thin iron were given to brides-to-be in Rome. It may not have been until 1475, in Italy, when Constanzo Sforza gave Camillia d'Aragona a diamond ring to signify their betrothal that the tradition of diamond engagement rings began.

In many cultures, at various times, jewelry and jewelry beads have been used as currency. Perhaps most memorably, in relatively recent history, in 1626, Native Americans accepted too few strings of European glass beads from a Dutch immigrant in trade for the island now known as Manhattan.

Three centuries later, in 1916, the renowned jeweler Jacques Cartier traded just two pearl necklaces for a parcel of land in Manhattan - where he opened his first store.Precious metals, stones, pearls, and beads have carried a host of meanings, intentions, and significance, depending on the era and the culture. Love tokens, lockets containing a portrait or snippet of hair, Victorian jet mourning jewelry, Burmese rubies inserted beneath the skin to protect warriors in battle.

Jewelry has acquired, shed, and in many cases re-acquired a multitude of intriguing meanings.In that same spirit of transformation, in different regions of the world, jewelry has attached itself to different parts of the body.In India, jewelry has long reigned supreme and extravagant, ornamenting almost every aspect of a woman, from hair to nose to ankle to toe.

Jewelry likewise found its way to the feet in 18th Century England, but there, it was attached to shoes instead of toes, transforming mundane moccasins into ornately buckled masterpieces.The 21st Century has renewed the ancient rave and reverence for jewelry, and perhaps even taken it to new heights, again from hair to toe - and this time, absolutely everywhere imaginable in between!

CARING FOR YOUR DIAMOND

Diamonds may be the hardest substance known to man, but they still can be damaged or dulled. Your diamond jewelry will benefit from the following tips:

1 - Don't jumble your diamond jewelry together or with other pieces, because diamonds can scratch other jewelry and each other.

2 - Keep your diamond jewelry in a fabric-lined jewel case or in a box with compartments or dividers.

3 - Don't wear your diamonds when doing rough work Even though a diamond is durable, it can be chipped by a hard blow.

4 - Clean your diamonds regularly using either commercial jewelry cleaner, a mix of ammonia and water, or a mild detergent. Dip the jewelry into the solution, and use a soft brush to dislodge dust or dirt from under the setting.

5 - Don't let your diamond come in contact with chlorine bleach or other chemicals, because they can pit or discolor the mounting.

6 - See your jeweler at least once a year to have your jewelry professionally cleaned and checked for loose prongs and wear.

KARAT GOLD JEWELRY

Gold, one of the world's most precious metals, dates back to the dawn of mankind. All civilizations built up to treasuries of the lustrous metal, reserving golden objects for their most important rituals.

However, the most alluring use of the sun-colored metal has always been in jewelry.

The Egyptians, largest producers of gold in ancient world, equated gold with the sun, the giver of life, and reserved its use for pharaohs only.

The ancient Etruscans created meticulously handwrought objects using fine granules and threads of gold, a technique still practiced today.

To this day, Chinese and Indian brides wear jewelry of no less than 24-karat gold on their wedding day to ensure a lifetime of good luck and happiness.

And, a gift of gold jewelry says love and permanence as eloquently today as in all the ages past.

The Uniqueness of Gold:
Of all the world's precious metals, only gold combines the four basic characteristics that make it a universally treasured possession.

Beauty - Gold's natural color can be further enhanced by alloying it with small amounts of other metals, yielding a spectrum of exquisite, subtle shades. Metalsmiths are able to create yellow, rose, green, and white golds by adjusting the alloys. More copper results in a softer rose color; additional silver creates green gold; and palladium produces white. A popular trend is to combine two or more colors of gold in a single piece of jewelry.

Purity - It is estimated that only slightly more than 100,000 tons of gold have been taken from the earth during all of recorded history. And although gold can be found in rivers, seas and land in many parts of the earth, it is not easily extracted. Opening a mine is a time-consuming and costly operation, and several tons of ore are required in order to produce just one ounce of the precious metal.

Durability - Look no further than the nearest museum where gold jewelry, coins and artifacts from ancient civilizations attest to the metal's enduring beauty and permanence.

Workability - Jewelers throughout the ages have preferred gold to all other metals for its beauty and ease of workmanship. Gold can be melted, or shaped, to create any design. It can be alloyed with a number of other metals to increase its strength and produce a variety of colors and can be re-melted and used again to create new designs.

How To Buy Karat Gold Jewelry:
Look for the quality mark. Pure gold, or 24-karat, is generally considered too soft for use in jewelry, so it is alloyed with other metals to increase its strength.

Eighteen-karat gold is 18/24ths, or three-quarters pure gold. Jewelry of this fineness is marked "18K" or "750", the European designation meaning 75 percent gold.

In United States, 14-karat gold is used most commonly for jewelry. Fourteen-karat gold is 14/24ths, or slightly more than one-half pure gold. Jewelry of this fineness is marked "14k" or "585", the European designation meaning 58.5 gold.

Nothing less than 10-karat gold can be legally marked or sold as gold jewelry in the United States. These pieces are marked "10k" or "417", the European designation meaning 41.7 percent gold.

Look for trademarks accompanying the quality mark. When a piece of jewelry is stamped with a quality mark,law requires that it be stamped with a hallmark or trademark as well. Sometimes the jewelry is also marked with its country of origin. These designations are designed to assure you that you are buying genuine gold jewelry of the karatage marked.

Gold come in a variety of colors. Because gold is alloyed with other metals to increase its strength, it can also be made in a variety of colors.

Caring for Your Gold Jewelry:
Remember that gold is lasting and durable but can get scratched or dented if treated roughly.
Gold's worst enemy is chlorine. Repeated exposure can weaken gold's structure, eventually leading to breakage.

Protect your gold jewelry by storing it safely or keeping it wrapped in a soft cloth when not being worn.

Clean your gold jewelry with a cleaning solution of sudsy lukewarm water, or bring it to a jewelry to be steam-cleaned.

Dry and polish with a chamois or soft cloth after cleaning and rinsing

Sterling Silver

Since the dawn of civilization, men and women have been captivated by silver's spell and splendor. Throughout the ages this mystical white metal has been used to mark historical milestones, celebrations, achievements and special occasions.

No one knows with certainty when the first silver gift was bestowed. But as early as 3100 B.C., ambassadors from Crete were already bring silver vases as gifts for Egyptian rulers. The metal's popularity has even influenced our languages and customs. A silver spoon has symbolized great fortune and privilege since the 17th century when the Spanish writer Cervantes cleverly acknowledged that not everyone was born with one in his mouth. The tradition of the "silver anniversary" dates back to Germany where it was customary to present a silver wreath to a women after 25 years of marriage.

Sterling Silver is a favorite medium for today's most creative and innovative designers due to its affordability and malleability - it can be shaped into almost any form imaginable. A special gift of silver is a touch and lasting expression of affection, friendship, celebration, congratulation or thanks.

Defining the Elements - Silver is an element that occurs naturally in the earth and is generally considered too soft in its pure form for practical use in jewelry, giftware or flatware. An alloy such as copper is usually added to make silver workable for jewelry.

Sterling Silver - Sterling Silver is 92.5 percent (925 parts) pure silver and 7.5 percent (75 parts) alloy metal. Sterling Silver is the primary material used for silver jewelry. The silver content and quality of all silver jewelry and gift items must be accurately represented. The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has established a set of stamps and markings to represent silver content and you should look for them when making a silver purchase.

Only jewelry that is at least 92.5 percent pure silver can be called or labeled "silver," "solid Silver," "sterling silver," or "sterling". If one of these terms is stamped on the silver jewelry you are purchasing then the piece meets the U.S. government standards. Sometimes, a piece will be stamped with "925," ".925," or "92.5." These are also appropriate markings and they assure you that you are buying genuine sterling silver.

Vermeil - Pronounced "vermay", Vermeil is a French word describing sterling silver that has been electroplated with at least 100 millionths of an inch of karat gold.
Caring for your silver: The beauty of sterling silver jewelry and gifts is part of this metal's ageless appeal. Properly caring for your silver collection is a sure way to keep sterling looking its shining best.

As with any fine jewelry or gift item, each piece of sterling silver should be stored individually, either in its own soft pouch or in a separate compartment in a jewelry or storage box. If you toss your jewelry into a dresser drawer and allow pieces to rub against each other, scratches will result.

Keep your silver in a cool, dry place. Sterling Silver, like other precious metals, can oxidize with time. It is a good idea to store silver in a tarnish-proof cloth or in drawers lined with tarnish-resistant strips. If sterling does become tarnished, it is easily restored to its original gleam by using a paste, liquid polish, or a treated polishing cloth intended for use on silver. Or you may simply wash the jewelry or silver objects with warm water, rubbing in a little soap or toothpaste, rising and then patting dry with a fine soft cloth.

Avoid using tissue paper or paper towels as they can scratch silver. Your professional jeweler should be able to provide you with silver-cleaning materials as well as direction for proper use. The best way to prevent tarnish it to actually wear your sterling jewelry or use your items often. However, don't wear sterling silver in chlorinated water or when working with household cleaners such as bleach or ammonia. Treat your silver well and it will actually develop a lush patina and will reward you with a lustrous look.
Reference: Jewelers of American, Inc.

Silversmith

A silversmith is a person who works primarily with silver. Unlike blacksmiths, silversmiths do not shape the metal while it is red-hot but instead, work it at room temperature with gentle and carefully placed taps of their hammer.

While silversmiths specialize in, and principally work, silver, they also work with other metals such as gold, copper, steel, and brass.

They make jewellery, silverware, armour, vases, and other artistic items. Because silver is such a malleable metal, silversmiths have a large range of choices with how they prefer to work the metal.

Historically, silversmiths are mostly referred to as goldsmiths, which was usually the same guild.Silver is cheaper than gold, though still valuable, and so is very popular with jewellers who are just starting out and cannot afford to make pieces in gold. Silver has also become very fashionable, and is used frequently in more artistic jewellery pieces.

There are several different types of silversmiths: Some are involved in the fabrication of the metals, where items are typically cut and then constructed with differing connections, such as soldering or riveting. Others work in wax and then cast their pieces using a process called lost wax casting, where the wax original is evaporated in a burn-out process in a kiln.

There are silversmiths who specialize in forging and forming, producing pieces that are typically made from a single piece of metal that has been hammered or formed under the pressure of percussion or squeezing from a press, such as a hydraulic press.

There are silversmiths who only make jewelery and there are silversmiths who only make utensils.Traditionally a Silversmith gets its name from the production of "silverware" (cutlery, bowls, plates, cups, candlesticks and such). Only in more recent times has a silversmith expanded to work on jewellery, due to the similarity in techniques.

Goldsmith

A goldsmith is a metalworker who specializes in working with precious metals, usually, to make jewelry, valuable flatware, platters, goblets, decorative and serviceable utensils, and ceremonial or religious items.

Goldsmiths must be skilled in forming metal through filing, soldering, piercing, sawing, forging, casting, and polishing metal. Traditionally, these skills had been passed along through apprenticeships, however, more recently Jewelry Arts Schools specializing solely in teaching goldsmithing and a multitude of skills falling under the jewelry arts umbrella are now available.

Many Universities and Junior Colleges also offer goldsmithing, silversmithing and metal arts fabrication as a part of their fine arts curriculum. Today, it is not uncommon for a goldsmith to study other arts in order to reflect the social implications of the products of the trade.

Gold and precious metals have been worked by humans in all cultures where the metals were available, either indigenously or imported, and the history of these activities is extensive. Superbly made objects from the ancient cultures of Europe, Africa, India, Asia, South America, Mesoamerica, and North America grace museums and collections around the world.

In medieval Europe goldsmiths were organized in guilds and were usually one of the most important and wealthy of the guilds in a city. The guild kept records of members and the marks they used on their products. These records are very useful to historians, where they to survive.

Goldsmiths often acted as bankers, since they dealt in gold and had sufficient security for the safe storage of valuable items. In the Middle Ages, goldsmithing normally included silversmithing as well, but the brass workers and workers in other base metals were normally in a separate guild since the trades were not allowed to overlap. Usually jewelers were goldsmiths.

The printmaking technique of engraving developed among goldsmiths in Germany around 1430, who had long used the technique on their metal pieces. The notable engravers of the 1400s either were goldsmiths, as was Master E. S., or the sons of goldsmiths, such as Martin Schongauer and Albrecht Dürer.

Handmade jewelry

Handmade jewelry is jewelry which has been assembled and formed by hand rather than through the use of machines.

According to the guidelines of the FTC, in order to be stamped or called "handmade" the work must be made without the use of electricity except for polishing Beyond that caveat it can be anything made out of anything that would be considered jewelry.

The American Gem Trade Association Spectrum awards, the Gem Center Idar Oberstein, and the De Beers Awards include awards specifically for handmade jewelry.

Although there is much mass produced jewelry in the world, there are many people who prefer to have work that is hand-crafted by a real artisan, and the arena of hand made jewelry and other items will likely remain healthy because of that fact. Much jewelry that is marked or sold as "hand made" often is not truly so, though it may be essentially so. It can be difficult to do some tasks such as drilling without electricity, but to be truly handmade, every task must be done by human power alone.

Art jewelry

Art jewelry is created with a variety of materials not just precious metals and gems. Art jewelry should be compared to expressions of art in other media such as glass, wood, plastics and clay. Art jewelry however has not yet created such a large following and is a relatively small niche, where jewelry is mostly bought by collectors and museums.

Though many consider art jewelry still part of crafts as opposed to real arts (with its appropriate art critics) things are changing considerably, in particular in Germany.

In the 1960s and 1970s the German Government and the commercial jewelry industry decided to foster and heavily support modern jewelry designers, and thus creating a new marketplace. They focused in particular on combined contemporary design with their goldsmithing tradition and jewelry making. At present art jewelry is no longer a niche and many designers are sold in regular jewelry stores.

An example of current trends in art jewelry is the use of modern synthetic materials such a polypropylene, nylon and acrylic. Art jewelers have developed techniques for using these materials to dramatic effect. One example of this is award winning jeweler; Anoush Waddington, a designer working in the UK and selling internationally.

Fashion labels such as Bless, Martin Margiela, Comme des Garcons, etc have had a strong reference nd input in the field of contemporary jewelry.

The American art jewelry scene has not gone through such a phase yet, but the number of collectors, and museums that exhibit (exclusive) art jewelry is growing constantly. The Smithsonian museum, Houston Natural History Museum, Carnegie regularly showcase pieces of contemporary (American) jewelry designers.

Some famous artists who created art jewelry in the past were Calder, Picasso, Man Ray, Meret Oppenheim, Dali and Nevelson. Some of which represented at Sculpture to Wear Gallery in New York City which closed in 1977.

Artwear Gallery owned by Robert Lee Morris continued in this endeavor to showcase jewelry as an art form.A collection of art jewelry can be found at the Schmuckmuseum in Pforzheim Germany.

Jewellery Market

According to a recent KPMG study[38] the largest jewellery market is the United States with a market share of 30.8%, Japan, India and China and the Middle East each with 8 - 9% and finally Italy with 5%. They predict a dramatic change in relative market shares by 2015, where the market share of the United States will have dropped to around 25%, and China and India will increase theirs to over 13%.

The Middle East will remain more or less constant at 9%, whereas Europe's and Japan's marketshare will be halved and become less than 4% for Japan, and less than 3% for the biggest individual European countries: Italy and the UK.

Body modification

Body modification Young girl from the Padaung tribe.It can be difficult to determine where jewellery leaves off and body modification takes over, because they are different sub-categories of body art. For the most part, jewellery used in body modification is plain; the use of simple silver studs, rings and earrings predominates.

In fact, common jewellery pieces such as earrings, are themselves a form of body modification, as they are accommodated by creating a small hole in the human ear.
Padaung women in Myanmar place large golden rings around their necks. From as early as 5 years old, girls are introduced to their first neck ring. Over the years, more rings are added.

In addition to the twenty-plus pounds of rings on her neck, a woman will also wear just as many rings on her calves too. At their extent, some necks modified like this can reach 10-15 inches long; the practice has obvious health impacts, however, and has in recent years declined from cultural norm to tourist curiosity.[36] Tribes related to the Paduang, as well as other cultures throughout the world, use jewellery to stretch their earlobes, or enlarge ear piercings. In the Americas, labrets have been worn since before first contact by innu and first nations peoples of the northwest coast.

Lip plates are worn by the African Mursi and Sara people, as well as some South American peoples.

In the late 20th century, the influence of modern primitivism led to many of these practices being incorporated into western subcultures. Many of these practices rely on a combination of body modification and decorative objects; thus keeping the distinction between these two types of decoration blurred. As with other forms of jewellery, the crossing of cultural boundaries is one of the more significant features of the artform in the early 21st century.

In many cultures, jewellery is used as a temporary body modifier, with in some cases, hooks or even objects as large as bike bars being placed into the recipient's skin. Although this procedure is often carried out by tribal or semi-tribal groups, often acting under a trance during religious ceremonies, this practise has seeped into western culture.

Many extreme-jewellery shops now cater to people wanting large hooks or spikes set into their skin.

Most often, these hooks are used in conjunction with pulleys to hoist the recipient into the air. This practise is said to give an erotic feeling to the person and some couples have even performed their marriage ceremony whist being suspended by hooks.

Modern Jewelry

A necklace of white round pearls.Modern jewellery has never been as diverse as it is in the present day. The modern jewellery movement began in the late 1940s at the end of World War II with a renewed interest in artistic and leisurely pursuits. The movement is most noted with works by Georg Jensen and other jewellery designers who advanced the concept of wearable art.

The advent of new materials, such as plastics, Precious Metal Clay (PMC) and different colouring techniques, has led to increased variety in styles. Other advances, such as the development of improved pearl harvesting by people such as Kokichi Mikimoto and the development of improved quality artificial gemstones such as moissanite (a diamond simulant), has placed jewellery within the economic grasp of a much larger segment of the population.

The "jewellery as art" movement, spearheaded by artisans such as Robert Lee Morris and continued by designers such as Anoush Waddington in the UK, has kept jewellery on the leading edge of artistic design. Influence from other cultural forms is also evident; one example of this is bling-bling style jewellery, popularized by hip-hop and rap artists in the early 21st century. With the world's designs more accessible to jewellers, designs have blended in aspects from many different cultures from many different periods in time.

The late 20th century saw the blending of European design with oriental techniques such as Mokume-gane. The following are noted as the primary innovations in the decades stadling the year 2000: "Mokume-gane, hydraulic die forming, anti-clastic raising, fold-forming, reactive metal anodizing, shell forms, PMC, photoetching, and [use of] CAD/CAM."

Artisan jewellery continues to grow as both a hobby and a profession. With more than 17 U.S. periodicals about beading alone, resources, accessibility and a low initial cost of entry continues to expand production of hand-made adornments. Popular because of its uniqueness, artisan jewellery can be found in just about any price range. Some fine examples of artisan jewellery can be seen at The Metropolitan.